Recipe: Rhubarb-pecan crisp

In a story about the pleasures of spring food after a winter’s exile, Regina Shrambling wrote: But rhubarb is too good not to make something of it. I turn it into a classic crisp, with pecans for extra crunch in the topping, and then gild it with strawberry ice cream. The sharp combination of flavors, so much more common in pie, tastes like the season without the cliche.

Time: 50 minutes

Servings: 8 to 10

2/3cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

1 cup flour

1 1/2cups packed light brown sugar

1/2cup toasted chopped pecans

1/2cup old-fashioned oats

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2teaspoon allspice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

8 cups (1-inch) rhubarb pieces (about 2 3/4 pounds)

1/2cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Strawberry ice cream

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Use 1 tablespoon butter to generously grease the bottom and sides of a 13-by-9-inch baking dish.

2. Combine the flour, brown sugar, pecans, oats, cinnamon, ginger, allspice and salt in a bowl. Add the remaining butter and mix with your fingers or a wooden spoon until well blended.

3. Combine the rhubarb, sugar and cornstarch in a second bowl and mix well. Spread evenly into the prepared pan. Crumble the topping evenly over the rhubarb.

4. Bake until the rhubarb is tender and the topping is crisp and browned, about 30 minutes. Serve hot or warm, with ice cream.

Each of 10 servings: 427 calories; 4 grams protein; 64 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 19 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 36 mg. cholesterol; 208 mg. sodium.