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CALIFORNIA COOK
With its new facility being built near San Diego, Japan's Hokto Corp. and U.S. partner Golden Gourmet Mushrooms hope to bring a wider array of earthy delights to mainstream market shelves.
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Clubs, websites and blogs are springing up as enthusiasts experiment with new brews and share what they've learned along the way. >>
THE REVIEW
The new restaurant has a smart seasonal menu, great atmosphere and delicious food. >>
Chive crepes stuffed with mushrooms and hamTotal time: 1 hour, 25 minutes plus one hour chilling time for the crepe batter >>Pork belly banh miTotal time: 1 1/2 hours, plus braising and chilling time for the pork. >>Edamame sandwichTotal time: 35 minutes >>3 winning sandwiches: cod with radicchio slaw, edamame hummus sandwich and pork belly banh mi with pickled veggies. >>
Pan-fried cod with radicchio slaw on pumpernickelTotal time: 30 minutes >>'Igaili (cardamom-saffron sponge cake)Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes >>Ramadan ends in sugary bliss, with milky desserts, cake and custard. >>
Muhalbiyat al-ruz (milky rice pudding)Total time: 40 minutes, plus soaking and chilling times >>AshtaTotal time: 1 1/2 hours plus chilling time >>Halibut and shimeji baked in parchmentTotal time: 40 minutes >>The best of this week's food and wine events. >>
GjelinaRating: ** 1/2 >>WINE OF THE WEEK
Our pick for wine of the week >>
King trumpet mushroom salad with arugula and shaved ParmigianoTotal time: 15 minutes >>The innovative Spaniard runs an empire that includes multiple restaurants, a TV show and cookbooks -- and he continues to spread his Spanish culinary vision. >>
RESTAURANT REVIEW
The Wine Cask's ambitious menu reflects the new regime at the restaurant and wine shop. The results? Mixed, but promising. >>
Eateries including Scoops, Viet Noodle Bar and Olimpus Juices push the envelope. >>
COOKBOOK WATCH
With recipes, photos and essays, the cookbook paints a vivid, delectable, cross-cultural tale of modern eating in the eastern Mediterranean. >>
A world of ingredients blends into surprising flavors at Moles la Tia, Musha, Olimpus Juices, Scoops, Standard Sweets & Snacks and Viet Noodle Bar. >>
FROM OUR BLOG
FOR THE last several weeks, Omri Aflalo has been helming the stoves at Citrus at Social as acting chef de cuisine, and now chef-owner Michel Richard is making it official. Aflalo takes up the post relinquished by former chef de cuisine Remi Lauvand, who departed abruptly last month. >>
Datebook
Something for everyone. >>
CULINARY SOS
Dear SOS: I recently had dinner at La Golondrina Cafe on Olvera Street. Their flan was the best I have ever eaten. Would it be possible to get their recipe? >>
Bogavante a la gallega (Galician lobster)Total time: 30 minutes >>Magical honey cakeTotal time: 1 hour, 15 minutes, plus 7 days maturing time for the loaves >>Wine CaskRating: * 1/2 >>Olive oil pancakesTotal time: 30 minutes >>Baked pumpkin jam with cinnamon and gingerTotal time: 1 hour, 15 minutes >>Apple and fennel saladTotal time: 20 minutes >>Beet and pomegranate saladTotal time: 1 hour, 20 minutes >>BEER OF THE MONTH
Quick sip >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
Quick swirl >>
DATEBOOK SPOTLIGHT
Italian food festJimmy Kimmel and Adam Carolla host this festival celebrating Italian food and culture. Singer Jerry Vale receives an Italian Heritage Award at the opening-night gala benefiting the San Gennaro Foundation, which aids underprivileged children, families and homeless in L.A. The three-day feast is packed with Italian food, wine and music as well as rides and games. >>RESTAURANT REVIEW
Chef Alain Giraud, late of Bastide and before that Citrus, is back in town with a brasserie. >>
COOKBOOK WATCH
Nate Appleman, Sara Jenkins, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo offer do-it-yourself comfort food recipes that capture the flavors of autumn. >>
In the hands of pastry chefs, sundaes and other classics are transformed into sophisticated desserts. >>
THE FIND
Chef Juana Paz cooks up pristine seafood dishes and other powerfully flavored Peruvian favorites. >>
Reviewed: Dry Soda, Stirrings Cocktail Sodas, Fentimans, GuS, Vignette Wine Country Soda, San Pellegrino, Fever-Tree >>
With fruit and herb notes -- think rhubarb, lavender and juniper -- the drinks are a sparkling, alcohol-free alternative. >>
DATEBOOK
Something for everyone. >>
Monday meatballsTotal time: 2 hours, 15 minutes >>Coconut coupeTotal time: 50 minutes, plus overnight jelling time >>Roast carrot and avocado salad with orange and lemon dressingTotal time: 1 hour >>Coconut sablé cookiesTotal time: 45 minutes, plus chilling time >>AnisetteRating: ** >>Coconut meringuesTotal time: 25 minutes, plus baking time >>Lime coconut sorbetTotal time: 20 minutes, plus freezing time >>Almond biscottiTotal time: 1 hour >>Reaching higherCookbooks for very serious cooks or, well, chefs (alphabetical by author): >>Homespun spiritThe following, in stores this month, are books you can use as well as enjoy looking at (alphabetical by author): >>DATEBOOK SPOTLIGHT
Third Eye Blind, Styx and UB40 will headline. >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
Quick swirl >>
Puro Sabor Peruvian FoodLocation: 6366 Van Nuys Blvd., Van Nuys, (818) 908-0818. >>Fans rally behind Darrell Corti, who started a movement in California, and his threatened Sacramento grocery. >>
RESTAURANT REVIEW
The low-key bistro packs in the locals with its fresh, seasonal menu and its killer desserts. >>
ON THE SIDE
Beyond the kitchen, chefs are now TV stars, tableware designers and more -- businesspeople who, to succeed, must stay connected to cooking and to diners. >>
COOKING
For dishes that are boiled and braised, one or two leaves will do for a hint of clean astringency. If you're roasting, add several more to get the ultimate fragrance. >>
THE SAUCIER
With an immersion blender, making basic mayonnaise is easy. Then once you master the original, get creative and spike it with mustard, tarragon, saffron or piquillo pepper. >>
THE FIND
The Orange County restaurant takes you on a Puerto Rico trip with thoroughly satisfying comfort food. >>
DATEBOOK
Something for everyone. >>
Roast potatoes, onions, fennel and bay leaves>>Immersion blender mayonnaiseTotal time: About 8 minutes >>White-bean base for salads, soups and side dishesTotal time: 1 hour, 45 minutes >>CULINARY SOS
Dear SOS: I hope you can obtain the recipe for the great crab cakes I had at Traxx in Union Station. Hope they're not too difficult to make. >>
Variations for flavored mayoChipotle mayonnaise: Add one-fourth cup puréed canned chipotle chiles in adobo to a bowl of basic mayonnaise. >>Kebabs with bay leavesTotal time: 30 minutes >>Rustic CanyonRating: ** >>WINE OF THE WEEK
Quick swirl >>
Growing your own bay leavesWhere to buy: Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) trees can be found at Armstrong Garden Centers (check armstronggarden.com for locations), Marina del Rey Garden Center and other area nurseries. >>Los Angeles BBQ Festival>>Señor Big Ed Puerto Rican FoodLocation: 5490 Lincoln Ave., Cypress, (714) 821-1290 >>WINE
Offer your guests a half-dozen bottles with distinctive flavors and let them decide the compatibility of different wines with different dishes. >>
THE CALIFORNIA COOK
Let the starters last all night, and it's a small-plates party. >>
Favorite dishes of South Korea's first president and comfort food are on the menu at this L.A. eatery. >>
THE FIND
The 'Thai-inspired' restaurant's comfortable space makes it a treat to settle in and enjoy twists on favorite dishes. >>
THE CALIFORNIA COOK
With delicious staples on hand, you can pull together a spread and hardly cook at all. >>
The new restaurants tap historical plans to fit in with the restored Malibu Pier. >>
FROM OUR BLOG
Highlights from our blog, The Daily Dish, available online at latimes.com/dailydish >>
Small-plate matesHere's where to find eight recommended refreshing and different Italian wines. They include sparklers and dry whites as well as frothy reds and make delightful drinking with small-plates appetizers and antipasto dishes. >>Zucchini-basil frittataTotal time: 30 minutes >>Olives with lemon and rosemaryTotal time: 10 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating time >>White bean, anchovy and caper spreadTotal time: 10 minutes >>These tips will help you find a spit-roasted bird to eat at a restaurant or home. >>
Grab your kids and some baskets and head out to the nearest U-pick farm for the freshest fruits and vegetables. >>
THE REVIEW
The 'Hell's Kitchen' chef offers sophisticated fare in a glamorous setting. >>
Out on the fringes of the campaign trail, the partisan cookbook is a perennial candidate. Want a cookie? >>
Where to buy the best birds in L.A. CountyTHE FOLLOWING, in alphabetical order, represents a broad spectrum of sources for beautiful rotisserie birds, freshly made and ready to go. Some offer excellent meal package prices; several have exceptional side dishes. >>Farms that welcome the DIY crowdFinding U-pick farms has gotten easier than it used to be, thanks to Blake Slemmer, an Atlanta software executive who started the national pick-your-own website, www.pickyourown.org. He relies on visitor feedback to update his site, which provides farm lists for 50 states and six countries. Here are some U-pick farms within reasonable driving distance of Los Angeles that either offer activities for kids, have farm stands or are close to other U-pick farms. Farms offer bags or boxes but it's helpful to bring your own. For liability reasons, neither ladders nor cherry-pickers are allowed at most farms. >>Apple galette>>FARMERS MARKET
Peaking >>
DATEBOOK
Something for everyone. >>
COOKING
What to do with all those ripe tomatoes? Make the ultimate sauce and soup, and don't forget the Bloody Mary. >>
Senator Danforth's chiliTotal time: 2 hours and 40 minutes, plus overnight refrigeration >>Gordon RamsayRating: ** 1/2 >>WINE OF THE WEEK
Quick swirl >>
Jacqueline Kennedy's waffles >>
BEER OF THE MONTH
Quick sip >>
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
The master chef will team with a Japanese food importer to open the Sushi Institute of America downtown in September. >>
Morning menus are on the rebound, with tempting dishes such as blueberry ricotta pancakes at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica and grilled salmon in a bento box at the London Hotel in West Hollywood. >>
Favorite restaurants for a morning meal include Gordon Ramsay, Comme Ça, Anisette and Akasha. >>
THE REVIEW
Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo from Food Network's 'Two Dudes Catering' show open a restaurant that focuses on meat dishes. They don't hold back on the sugar and salt. >>
For a soothing morning meal, sample such Eastern delicacies as steamed buns, fresh soy milk and Chinese doughnuts. >>
The coffee industry's quest for quality starts with certified pros who stand by their senses. >>
Total time: 1 hour, 25 minutes >>
Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes >>
COOKING
Grilled, stewed, crisp or tender -- its season may be short, but the Hungarian pepper is versatile. >>
Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes >>
Total time: 50 minutes >>
Total time: 45 minutes >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
It's crisp and clean, with a bright citrus zing and a light touch of oak -- perfect for summer drinking. >>
WINE & SPIRITS
With so many out there, the challenge is finding one you love that's great with food and well priced. >>
COOKING
Rillettes -- the new wave in L.A.'s charcuterie renaissance -- can be made of pork, game, poultry, fish or even vegetables. So grab a baguette and enjoy. >>
THE FIND
A new Cambodian restaurant combines traditional cooking with improvisation. >>
Finding the right roséOf THE dozen-and-a-half rosés I tasted for this article, here are the ones I liked the best, listed in alphabetical order. All of them will prove terrific drinking through the summer. >>Total time: 4 hours, 10 minutes, plus 24 hours marinating time for the lamb >>
CULINARY SOS
Dear SOS: Is it possible to find the recipe for Clementine's banana cake with frosting? >>
Total time: 2 hours, 45 minutes, plus 3 days marinating time and 1 to 3 days chilling time >>
Total time: 25 minutes, plus cooling time for the trout >>
WINE OF THE WEEK
This is a perfect summer wine. >>
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Chef Joshua Siegel took a DIY approach to open his neighborhood place, then built a menu with integrity and charm. >>
Banana, fig and grape leaves bring distinctive flavors to such fillings as lamb meatballs, grilled halibut and feta. >>
THE CALIFORNIA COOK
Preserve it in spiced olive oil and you get a rich, meaty taste ready to serve in salad, with pasta or as a topping for bruschetta. >>
MEDIA DISH
A film based on the historic event that put California wine on the map -- starring Alan Rickman and Bill Pullman -- opens in Southern California. >>
Spaghetti with tuna and cherry tomatoesTotal time: 30 minutes >>Grilled lamb meatballs in fig leavesTotal time: About 1 hour >>Grilled halibut with cilantro-lime sauce in banana leavesTotal time: 50 minutes >>Conserved tunaTotal time: 25 minutes, plus cooling time >>The ParkRating: * 1/2 >>FARMERS MARKET
Peaking >>
Grilled feta in grape leavesTotal time: 45 minutes >>WINE OF THE WEEK
Quick swirl >>
CALIFORNIA COOK
High-quality products are Spanish, Portuguese and Italian imports, but some come from the U.S. West Coast too. >>
THE REVIEW
New chef Julia Wolfson has recharged the original menu with inspiring seasonal dishes in a conversation-friendly setting. >>
San Diego's Ballast Point is among a handful of breweries crafting whiskey, rum and other concoctions. 'It's really a form of advanced brewing,' says one enthusiast. >>
Cool summer dessert recipes from Paris-based chef and blogger David Lebovitz. >>
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
Grinding means so much more. >>
TOOL BOX
Reviewed: Zyliss Smart Touch, Cuisinart, Oxo, KitchenAid Salad and Fruit Spinner, Farberware Soft Grip Deluxe Salad Spinner and Copco. >>
CULINARY SOS
Dear SOS: The quiche from Le Pain Quotidien with ham and leeks is the very best. Do you have the recipe? >>
Berries jubilee with peach sorbet and salted candied almondsTotal time: 35 minutes, plus freezing and marinating time >>TOOL DEPARTMENT
The newest are not only efficient, but also offer such features as stop buttons and dividers. >>
Espresso granita with white chocolate creamTotal time: 20 minutes, plus freezing time >>AmmoRating: ** 1/2 >> |
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