A Californian wine bar opens in London
In April, San Francisco Chronicle wine editor Jon Bonné and eight of the winemakers featured in his 2013 book, “The New California: a Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste,” held a tasting for the British wine press in London. It went very well: The winemakers were thrilled with the Brit’s reception of the wines.
And now Michael and Charlotte Sager-Wilde, owners of one of London’s most lauded wine bars, Sager + Wilde, which only opened last year, have launched a new “Californian” wine bar. Called Mission, the wine bar in Bethnal Green in London’s East End showcases California wines, many of which are new territory for British wine buffs more used to sipping obscure Loire Valley wines or proud classified Bordeaux.
What’s in the name? Well, according to the news release, it’s “a nod towards the couple’s favorite neighborhood in San Francisco where they lived and worked; it is also the name given to the first grape ever planted in California’s wine region.” And as it turns out, Michael Sager-Wild managed the San Francisco wine bar RN74, which helps explain why the wine list is so uncannily savvy.
Huge on California wines, the list also includes some Old World beauties. As for bubblies, Mission pours their own Mission Fizz, but also 2009 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs. Wines are mostly from small producers, though you can also find the 2012 Albariño from Bonny Doon and the Grenache Blanc from Tablas Creek Vineyards. Harder-to-find whites include 2012 Smith-Madrone Riesling “Spring Mountain District” and Sandhi Chardonnay “Sanford & Benedict” along with Dragonette Cellars 2012 Sauvignon Blanc from Happy Canyon and Matthiasson 2012 Napa Valley White, even two whites from the eccentric Scholium Project.
Reds include LIOCO Carignan “Indica” from Mendocino County, Broc Cellars Cabernet Franc from Paso Robles, Dirty and Rowdy Mourvèdre from Santa Barbara Highlands, Alban Syrah “Patrina” — and a half-bottle of 1998 Ridge Vineyards “Montebello” from the Santa Cruz Mountains. One of the two “sticky” wines, i.e. sweet wines, is Sine Qua Non’s 2000 Mr. K “The Noble Man.” That’s a find.
Actually the full name of the place is Mission: Californian Wine Bar & Kitchen. So what’s to eat that would be particularly Californian? Not so much, unless you think grouse, liver toast and figs or salt ox cheek with lentils and salsa verde epitomize California cuisine. Well, there is a green salad on the menu. I guess that will have to do.
And what an address! It’s on Paradise Row.
Mission, 250 Paradise Row, London, 011-207-613-0478, www.missione2.com.
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