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Newsletter: In the Kitchen: Pumpkins, mushrooms and other seasonal offerings

Fairytale pumpkin: An old French variety, the fairytale has a tough outer rind but a relatively small seed cavity, meaning there’s plenty of sweet, creamy meat.

Fairytale pumpkin: An old French variety, the fairytale has a tough outer rind but a relatively small seed cavity, meaning there’s plenty of sweet, creamy meat.

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
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Fellow cooks,

In perennially sunny Southern California, it would seem the seasons aren't marked so much by changes in the weather and layers of clothing as by rotating holiday displays at the stores and flavored lattes at the local big-chain coffeehouse. Thankfully, we can also chart our seasons by the evolving array of vibrant produce to be found in our grocery stores and local farmers markets. And winter squash is now in season.

Russ Parsons breaks down what to look for in all the colorful winter squash to be found, as well as how to use it in the kitchen. And if you're looking for specific recipes, we snagged the excellent Punjabi-style pumpkin recipe from Badmaash Indian-influenced gastropub in downtown Los Angeles, along with candied pumpkin tamales from the chefs behind La Casita Mexicana and Mexicano.

— Noelle Carter

The world of squash isn't such a complicated place

Puzzled by the dozens of winter squash varieties in the market this fall? Don't worry, you're not alone. We've compiled a photo gallery of almost three dozen squash, and Food columnist Russ Parsons shares tips on selecting and cooking.

Pumpkin, Punjabi-style, at Badmaash

Looking for a way to get your pumpkin fix without having to suffer through another pumpkin-spiced latte? Nakul Mahendro, who runs Badmaash with his brother and their father, Pawan, who is also the chef, shares the restaurant's recipe for Punjabi-style pumpkin. "It's really a soul-warming experience to be in Punjab in the winter," he says.

Candied pumpkin and sweet pumpkin tamales

Chefs Jaime Martín del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu are in the kitchen of their newest restaurant, Mexicano, demonstrating calabaza en tacha — candied pumpkin. The treat can be enjoyed in a variety of dishes -- from omelets to stews -- and don't forget to try it in sweet pumpkin tamales. The pair share the recipes for a story on Dia de los Muertos, but these are dishes you'll want to enjoy all season long.

Recipe: Pumpkin tamales
(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times

Hunting for mushrooms? Here are 12 recipes

Not a fan of pumpkin or other winter squash? Now is also the perfect time to enjoy mushrooms, and you can hunt for them in the comfort of your local supermarket. While truly wild mushrooms such as chanterelles, morels, matsutakes and porcinis are scarce and expensive, there are other richly flavored mushrooms that can step in as understudies, even if they may not quite make you forget the stars. Russ Parsons reports and shares 12 recipes.

Polenta gratin with mushrooms and Fontina
(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times

Super-crisp roasted potatoes and Peruvian-style roast chicken top October's recipes

Curious to know which recipes were our most popular in the month of October? Super-crisp roasted potatoes from J. Kenji Lopez-Alt’s new cookbook, “The Food Lab,” tops the list. Lopez-Alt’s Peruvian-style roast chicken was also a favorite, as were perennial favorite best-ever mac 'n' cheese, scones from Na Young Ma’s Proof Bakery and an easy-to-make braised chicken with capers. Check out the top 10.

Super-crisp roasted potatoes. Get the recipe.
(Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times)

Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times

Jonathan Gold's 101

The 101 is coming! The Los Angeles Times will publish Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants, the authoritative annual guide to local dining, on Nov. 4. The print edition will be delivered to The Times’ Saturday subscribers on Nov. 7. Find the list on Wednesday at latimes.com/jonathangold. Official hashtag #JGOLD101

Check out the thousands of recipes on our Recipe Database

Feedback?

We’d love hear from you. Email us at food@latimes.com

Love cooking as much as I do? Follow me on Twitter: @noellecarter

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