Great-Tasting, Good-for-You Greens

“I am in urgent need of recipes for dark leafy greens--mustard, chard, kale, beet greens and turnip greens,” a reader writes. The problem, she says, is that the texture and taste of these items differs greatly from their distant cousin--spinach--which requires more gentle treatment than these hearty variations.

The vegetable category called “greens” is a generous one, ranging from those that are cabbage-like in texture to extremely tender varieties to those that are simply the tops of root vegetables like turnips and beets. The best-known kinds are spinach, kale, collards, turnips, beets, chard, mustard, broccoli leaves, chicory, endive, escarole, dandelion, cress and sorrel. Many can be used interchangeably in recipes; just be sure to substitute similar textures or adjust cooking times appropriately.

Most greens are classified among the cruciferous vegetable family. These include kale, rape, collards and mustards. Dandelion greens, which surprisingly are often found growing wild in one’s lawn, as well as escarole and endive, are part of the daisy family. Chard and beet greens are from the beet family.

High in Vitamins and Minerals

Most are high in vitamins and minerals, with collard greens ranking highest for calcium content--a whopping 236 milligrams per half-cup serving--whereas the calcium in kale and turnip greens averages about 200 milligrams per half-cup.

Greens can be boiled, steamed, braised, sauteed or microwaved, and some can be eaten raw. They should be used within one to two days of purchase, and after cooking they freeze quite well.

Kale and collards are most similar in texture. They are rather coarse, with firm, curled leaves. They are best when used the same day of purchase since they quickly begin to lose their nutritive value. To prepare either variety, cut or tear the leaves from the heavy stalks, discard the stalk, thoroughly wash and cook in a small amount of liquid with onions and desired meat such as a beef or ham bone, salt pork or lean bacon slices. Rape, or broccoli di rapa, can also be prepared in this manner and topped with a light cream or cheese sauce, but it is most often served sauteed in olive oil until tender.

Texture Similar to Spinach

The tender young leaves of dandelion greens and Swiss chard are similar in texture to spinach and can be cooked alone or with other vegetables. They are also suitable simmered gently in savory soups or chopped and incorporated into fritters, omelets and even quiche if a piquant flavor is desired. Dandelion greens are well suited for use raw in salads, but be sure to choose the young plant since the older ones display more bitterness.

Chicory, endive and escarole are generally regarded as members of the lettuce family, lauded mostly for the variety they lend to salads. They are, however, tasty when braised slightly. Chicory, with its rather bitter flavor, used in this manner serves well as a potherb.

The following recipes were chosen from “Farm Journal’s Best-Ever Vegetable Recipes” by the food editors of Farm Journal (Doubleday: $14.95, 278 pp.) and “A World of Vegetable Cookery” by Alex D. Hawkes (Simon and Schuster: $24.95, 283 pp.). The Farm Journal cookbook includes detailed descriptions of vegetables, including seasonality, selection, storage, preparation, yield and serving suggestions. Plus, it features a microwaving chart and illustrations of each vegetable. A chapter on garnishes and some color photography supplement a large selection of recipes.

“A World of Vegetable Cookery” gives botanical information, suggestions for use and storage and some recipes. It provides illustrations of most vegetables. Plus, there is information on some new and unusual species like Hawaiian breadfruit and Japanese udo. BRAISED GREENS WITH RED PEPPER

1 bunch young, tender mustards

1/4 cup butter

1 medium sweet red pepper, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Wash greens well and drain. Trim tough stems. Coarsely chop greens.

In 10-inch skillet over high heat, bring 1/4 inch water to boil. Add greens and cook, covered, 1 minute or until greens are wilted. Drain and set aside.

In same skillet over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add red pepper and garlic and cook until tender. Stir in greens, salt and pepper. Cook, covered, 3 to 5 minutes or until greens are tender. Makes 6 servings.

PER SERVING: 96 calories; 3 gm protein; 5 gm carbohydrate; 8 gm fat; 297 mg sodium; 321 mg potassium. USRDA

Protein 04% Riboflavin 10% Vitamin A 113% Niacin 03% Vitamin C 149% Calcium 14% Thiamine 06% Iron 13%

CREAMED KALE AND ONIONS

2 pounds small white onions, peeled

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 pounds kale, washed, trimmed and coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons flour

3/4 teaspoon dried rosemary leaves

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup milk

3/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Bring 1 inch water to boil in 4-quart Dutch oven over high heat. Add onions and 1 teaspoon salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Add kale, cover and cook 5 minutes or until onions are tender and kale is wilted. Drain.

Meanwhile, melt butter in 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour, rosemary, pepper and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt until smooth. Gradually stir in milk and Worcestershire until blended. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture boils and thickens. To serve, place kale and onions on serving platter. Spoon sauce over vegetables. Makes 6 servings.

PER SERVING: 189 calories; 11 gm protein; 28 gm carbohydrate; 6 gm fat; 700 mg sodium; 729 mg potassium. USRDA

Protein 17% Riboflavin 26% Vitamin A 232% Niacin 14% Vitamin C 377% Calcium 38% Thiamine 17% Iron 22%

ITALIAN BREADED KALE

1 large bunch kale

1 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup water

1/4 cup light olive oil

1 medium clove garlic, mashed

3/4 cup coarse bread crumbs

2 to 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Tear or cut crisp leaves from stalks, discarding stalks. Wash and drain kale. Add salt to water and bring to boil. Add kale to boiling salted water and cook, covered, over medium-high heat until tender. Add oil, garlic, bread crumbs and cheese and stir lightly. Continue to cook 3 to 4 minutes. Drain excess moisture and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

PER SERVING: 269 calories; 11 gm protein; 24 gm carbohydrate; 16 gm fat; 784 mg sodium; 467 mg potassium. USRDA

Protein 16% Riboflavin 23% Vitamin A 228% Niacin 16% Vitamin C 352% Calcium 35% Thiamine 17% Iron 21%

DANDELION GREENS YANKEE STYLE

2 bunches dandelion leaves

1/2 cup water

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 pound lean bacon

1/2 cup chopped onion

Butter, optional

Black pepper

Trim any coarse parts at base of dandelion leaves and wash well. Tear into bite-size pieces. Bring water to boil in large Dutch oven. Add salt and add greens, bacon and onion and cook, covered, over high heat, stirring occasionally, until dandelions are tender. Drain and serve with butter and additional salt and pepper to taste. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Nutrient data does not include butter or additional salt added after cooking. Diced salt pork may be substituted for bacon.

PER SERVING: 248 calories; 6 gm protein; 13 gm carbohydrate; 20 gm fat; 814 mg sodium; 520 mg potassium. USRDA

Protein 09% Riboflavin 20% Vitamin A 318% Niacin 03% Vitamin C 70% Calcium 22% Thiamine 22% Iron 22%

SWISS CHARD MORNAY

2 pounds Swiss chard

1 teaspoon salt

5 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

1/4 cup shredded Swiss cheese

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup soft bread crumbs

Wash chard well and drain. Cut off stalks and cut into 1-inch pieces. Coarsely chop leaves. Bring 1 inch water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Add chard stalks and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, covered, 5 minutes. Stir in chopped chard leaves. Cover and cook 3 to 5 minutes longer or until leaves are wilted and stalks are tender. Drain well.

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt until smooth. Gradually stir in milk until smooth. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture boils and thickens. Remove from heat.

Stir in chard and cheeses, then turn into 2-quart casserole sprayed with non-stick coating spray. Top with bread crumbs, dot with remaining 2 tablespoons butter and bake at 425 degrees 15 to 20 minutes or until bubbly. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Butter may be used to grease casserole, but this will add about 100 calories per tablespoon to dish.

PER SERVING: 239 calories; 10 gm protein; 18 gm carbohydrate; 15 gm fat; 824 mg sodium; 972 mg potassium. USRDA

Protein 15% Riboflavin 28% Vitamin A 209% Niacin 06% Vitamin C 82% Calcium 32% Thiamine 11% Iron 29%