Dobson Brings a Bit of Madrid to San Diego With La Gran Tapa

It has proven rather amusing of late to tell people that restaurateur Paul Dobson has opened a new tapas bar in downtown San Diego.

The word tapas seems to register incorrectly with about three out of five listeners. Their eyes narrowing in amazement or amusement, these folks tend to blurt: “Dobson has opened a topless bar?”

Perhaps it would be better, if less humorous, to say that Dobson has opened a tasca, as Spaniards call these watering holes of varying grandeur that serve drinks and snacks. In Spain, the tasca is a national institution to which it is possible to retire at almost any hour for a glass of sherry and a bite or two of tapas, a category of foods that encompasses a virtual galaxy of savory appetizers and small dishes. Many tascas are famous for their version of one particular tapa, and a favorite early-evening sport in Madrid is to go tasca- hopping, searching out the best dish that each place has to offer.

Dobson’s La Gran Tapa, which dished up its first bowl of black bean soup just a few weeks ago, seems a fair re-creation of these classic Spanish hangouts. The menu changes every other week so as to provide a revolving selection, several dozen at a time, of the nearly endless list of dishes in the tapa repertoire. Among these are such standards, served by even the humblest tascas, as gambas al ajillo (shrimp cooked in olive oil with garlic and red pepper) and tortilla, a somewhat solid potato omelette baked in a cast-iron skillet.

La Gran Tapa’s facade and decor are the result of a trip that Dobson made to Madrid in 1985. He spent 10 days photographing some of the city’s most popular turn-of-the-century tascas, and claims that his new eatery most closely resembles Madrid’s famed La Bola.

The front dining room, which contains a large, circular bar, is spacious and not too formal; the back room is quieter and more intimate. Mirrors stud the antique red paneling, and sketches of bullfighters poised at the moment of glory hang everywhere, a tribute not only to Spain’s national passion but also to Dobson’s--the man is a weekend matador of some repute.

Dobson said that the menu largely was researched, tested and written by chef Deborah MacDonald, who cooked for a while at Dobson’s namesake restaurant on Broadway Circle and most recently worked as sous chef at La Casa del Zorro in Borrego Springs. MacDonald overall seems to do a good job, preparing some truly tip-top tapas. A few clinkers were encountered over the course of four visits, but these were greatly outweighed by successful dishes. And based on samplings of the three soups offered thus far, MacDonald can be said to be batting 1.000 in this department.

It is possible to order a single dish, or to create a meal by enjoying several tapas in tandem; the quantity ordered is at the discretion of the guest. Since portions seem to be quite a bit larger than in Spain, it should not be possible for the average guest to down more than two or three different dishes. However, given the nature of these creations, sharing bites is supremely easy and natural, thus allowing two or more diners to eat their way through a reasonable portion of the menu on a single visit.

Since tapas properly should not be considered as the components of a formal meal, there is no need to try to choose dishes based on the first course, soup or salad, main course model. With the exception of a few sandwiches that Dobson pragmatically inserted into the menu, all the dishes can be considered as first courses. Still, if one wishes to begin with soup (and given MacDonald’s virtuosity in this area, one should indeed), it is as well to do so at the beginning.

The choice recently has included gazpacho, the cooling, summery soup of Spain interpreted here as a brightly flavored blend of tomato, cucumber, onion, garlic, vinegar and oil; a smooth, zesty crab chowder given perky puffs of flavor with occasional bits of cilantro and sweet and hot peppers, and a magnificent black bean soup that quietly burned with hot spicing and included savory shreds of meat in a suavely textured liquid.

The seafood selections seem to follow naturally after the soups. There have been a few difficulties in this area; the shrimp in garlic-flavored oil lacked conviction, as it were, and La Gran Tapa’s rendition of shrimp Titus proved a messy concoction that the average San Diegan might as happily let alone. This dish is considered quite a luxury in Madrid, and indeed it is, since the giant prawns are accompanied by a cold sauce concocted from more than a dozen ingredients. But the shrimp are served whole (even the heads have not been removed), and must be peeled by the guests, who may not find the finger bowls brought with the shrimp much comfort in light of spotted neckties and dresses.

The Greek shrimp were much happier; these teamed comfortably with feta cheese and a melange of chopped tomato and fennel spiked with brandy. And the pan-fried oysters, plumply hiding inside golden sheaths of well-browned bread crumbs, were delicious with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

The house tortilla, served cold and in wedges as is the custom, is buried beneath a spicy tomato sauce that adds interest to this popular but otherwise bland potato omelette. A nice companion to this dish is the romaine salad, a distant cousin to the fussier Caesar salad. Large hunks of crisp garlic croutons distinguish this pleasant plate of lightly dressed greenery.

Among the hot dishes, it would be nice if more included the highly seasoned chorizo sausage of Spain, which is totally unlike the Mexican sausage of the same name but, unfortunately, cannot be imported into this country. The selection is in any case excellent, though, beginning with the small brochettes of spiced lamb (marinated, crusted with herbs and grilled) accompanied by rich Spanish olives. The chicken livers sauteed with onions and mushrooms are even better; the livers are sauteed just to the point of doneness, and then splashed with sherry and hustled onto the plate.

The empanada (a savory turnover or pie, which can be stuffed with almost anything) of one recent visit burst with the flavors of Spain, especially cumin and paprika, which in this case seasoned a marvelous mixture of ground, marinated pork and green olives.

Other interesting choices include eggs flamenco (baked with sherry, artichokes and Mexican chorizo); a small round of Camembert cheese, crumbed and deep-fried; cold octopus in paprika sauce; snails cooked with cured ham, red wine, garlic and parsley, and boquerones, or fresh anchovies marinated in the style of Cadiz.

The sandwich list also offers several interesting choices, among them a smoked tuna salad dressed with avocado and a grilled chicken breast finished with Russian dressing. The hamburger is made ever-so-slightly Spanish by the addition of sauteed red onion, and is in any case quite good. Homemade potato chips garnish the sandwiches and, when fresh and crisp, they are excellent. They do not seem to keep well, though, as was evidenced by one tough, soggy order.

Desserts are largely prepared elsewhere, but the house rice pudding can be recommended, and the iced lime souffle makes a refreshing and not-too-filling climax to what can be a rather heavy meal.

Sherry traditionally is drunk with tapas , and is available in some selection. The wine card also lists a good number of quality vintages available by the glass.

Most dishes cost between $5 and $6, so that the bill can mount if one indulges in very many of them.

DAVID NELSON ON RESTAURANTS

LA GRAN TAPA

611 B St., San Diego

234-8272

Credit cards accepted.

Same menu served 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until midnight weekends. Closed Sundays.

A full-scale meal for two, with a glass of sherry each, tax and tip, can cost $30 to $45.