Innovation--A California Holiday Tradition

A trip “over the river and through the woods” is a state of mind rather than a Thanksgiving reality for most Southern Californians. Here, holiday entertaining means reinterpreting tradition. Conventional table centerpieces are given touches such as tiny pineapples and tropical leaves. Holiday hams are glazed with jalapeno jelly. And bold fall colors brighten oversize plates, bowls and bold plaid napkins.

PUMPKIN MOUSSE

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin

1/2 cup cold water

3/4 cup sugar

2 cups buttermilk

1 cup canned pumpkin

1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

3/4 cup chopped walnuts

1 cup whipping cream, whipped

Soak gelatin in water in saucepan. Add sugar and 1 cup buttermilk. Stir over low heat to dissolve gelatin. Stir in pumpkin, spice, lemon peel and remaining buttermilk. Chill until thickened. Fold in walnuts and whipped cream. Turn into a 6-cup mold. Chill. Makes 8 servings. PRODUCED BY ROBIN TUCKER AND VIRGINIA GRAY

PHOTOGRAPHED BY FRITZ TAGGART AT DEL REY COLONY, VENICE