One Good Chef Deserved Another and Another . . .

No complaints on Sunday about too many chefs in the kitchen of the Four Seasons Hotel in Newport Beach. Some of the country’s finest chefs had come from as far away as New York and Washington to cook for the Newport Harbor Art Museum’s “Art of Dining” benefit.

One look at the tables and guests knew it would be a dinner to remember. With eight sparkling glasses, six gleaming knives and forks and two spoons at each setting, there wasn’t an inch to spare.

“If I asked my son to set a table like this, he’d leave home,”said committee member Judy Slutzky.

Sam Goldstein, chairman of the black-tie event and chairman of the museum’s development committee, was credited with the affair’s 420-guest turnout, its concept and execution.

“Sam did everything,” said museum director Kevin Consey. “He got everything donated but the shellfish.”

Goldstein coordinated the project with chef Joachim Splichal, a consultant for the Regency Club in Los Angeles. Goldstein first presented the idea to Splichal, he said, after the chef had prepared dinner for museum founders. “He came in and cooked dinner from scratch. He was so gracious, I said, ‘Would you consider something else?’ ”

Splichal said yes and prevailed upon other chefs to join him. By the time dinner was served on Sunday, he estimated that there were 55 in the kitchen, including chefs, helpers, stewards and volunteers.

Executive chef Michel Pieton represented the Four Seasons Hotel with an appetizer of lobster salad with French string beans in truffle vinaigrette. Jean-Louis Palladin of the Watergate Hotel in Washington prepared a cepes (mushroom) soup with bone marrow custard.

Chefs Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken of the City Restaurant and Border Grill in Los Angeles presented steamed corn tamales with sour cream and salsa. Milliken said the dish took two days to prepare, with 10 hours required for rolling the tamales.

Michel Richard, chef of the Citrus Restaurant in Los Angeles, estimated 12 hours of preparation for his ravioli with pistou sauce. The dish was followed by Splichal’s salmon in philo.

Brian Whitmer of the Montrachet Restaurant in New York prepared a breast of baby pheasant with creamed parsnips in zinfandel sauce.

For dessert, Four Seasons pastry chef Jean Claude Berger served chocolate terrine with fruit coulis palette.

As they dined, guests were able to watch the chefs at work. Television monitors scattered throughout the room showed each course as it was prepared.

Among those attending were Goldstein’s wife Pam and Ellen Breitman, museum curator of education, with fiance Brien Amspoker. After dessert, the audience greeted the chefs with a standing ovation.

The cost of the feast was $150 per person. The event raised $35,000 for the museum’s permanent collection fund.

It didn’t look promising for the Orange County Pacific Symphony guilds a few days before their “Applause Celebrity Luncheon” staged at the Anaheim Marriott last week. Singer Rosemary Clooney, who was to entertain, became ill and canceled her engagement.

Good fortune prevailed when singer Carol Lawrence agreed to substitute. “We were absolutely relieved,” said event chairman Ari McDonnell. “She (Lawrence) loves the symphony, called it a labor of love.”

Marcy Mulville, guilds president, said members annually meet to applaud their individual guild presidents. Usually they have a fashion show, she said. But this year they chose to have Clooney entertain.

Lawrence adapted her Las Vegas act to the banquet hall’s small stage. The entertainer performed Broadway melodies, country-western tunes and popular songs. Instead of leaving the stage to change costumes, Lawrence slipped out of her first dress to expose a slinky Bob Mackie creation underneath.

The cramped conditions proved perilous to six men who joined Lawrence for a “top hat, white tie and tails” routine. Besides stepping on each other’s toes, one fellow managed to march into the piano, cane in hand.

Lawrence said she disliked much of today’s music. “I was brought up on soaring symphonies,” she said. “Nowadays I cringe at what’s presented. Humanity has been taken out of our music.”

Mulville, who founded the Pacific Symphony guilds seven years ago, estimated membership at 450. “We’re emissaries of the symphony, lovers of music,” she said.

Event proceeds, estimated at $7,000, were to benefit Pacific Symphony programs.

Guild presidents who were applauded at the affair included Leith Millen, Celeste guild; Elaine Hawkey, Cello; Ruth Salaets, Harp; Lydia Sharp, Timpani, and Betty Rawitch, Violin.

Mary Ann Hankins, Alma Hall Bean, Dr. Julia Rappaport, Mary Lou Hopkins and Wan Mi Kwon served on the committee.