Paris Underground

A newcomer ringside at the big Paris shows is Jacqueline Cotsen of Los Angeles, wife of Neutrogena soap chief Lloyd Cotsen. She isn’t in Paris for the shows, she said, but to “negotiate a still-secret deal” with designer Valentino, whose show took place Monday. Her partner in the not-yet-confirmed venture would be Linda Wachner, former president of Max Factor Cosmetics and current president of Warnaco. “We’re close friends,” Cotsen said. Another friend of the family is Philippe Bouriez, head of Revillon furs. His son, a recent college graduate, will join the Neutrogena team in Los Angeles to learn about marketing.

Montana Lineup

Barbara Bass, one of the most successful women in U. S. retailing, waited in line just like everyone else outside the Claude Montana show. Bass, 39, is chief executive officer of the I. Magnin stores after a stint as executive vice president at Bloomingdale’s in New York. Near her in the crowd were Rodeo Drive retailer Herb Fink, his wife, Norma, and his daughter Lisa. Because the Finks own the Montana boutique in Beverly Hills, it was fitting that both women were decked out in deep-green Montana outfits. Norma’s was leather, Lisa’s was knit. The Finks told Listen that their new perfume, Spoiled, will be launched at Bullock’s in March and at the Broadway in September. It’s described as a very light floral scent priced at $55 per 3 1/2 ounces of eau de parfum.

When Time Stood Still

Actress Grace Jones and designer Issey Miyake made quite an entrance at the Dorothy Bis show here, arriving just before the lights went out. Jones, in one of Miyake’s tall, black rubber hats, was mobbed by autograph hounds. With them was jewelry designer Pascal Morabito, who showed Listen his newest watch. It is silver with a wide, silver mesh band--until you turn it over. On the reverse side, it’s the same watch and band, but in gold.

Show Puts on the Dog

Our vote for the world’s most fashionable dog goes to Amy, the Lakeland terrier who sat first row center at Karl Lagerfeld’s show last weekend and seemed to enjoy the passing scene. It was her fourth season at the event, said her owner Ernest Marx, president of the Saks Jandel store in Chevy Chase, Md., but so far she has no designer clothes.

Missing-Person Report

Among the missing at the Paris shows is John B. Fairchild, publisher of Women’s Wear Daily, who has been a front-row fixture each season here for years. Rumors are circulating that Fairchild called a pal in New York and said he’d had it with shows and will never attend one again.