The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Anh Hong, 10195 Westminster Ave., Garden Grove. (714) 537-5230. Open Mondays through Thursdays 3 to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Anh Hong is a Vietnamese restaurant for beef lovers only; the specialty is a seven-course beef dinner that would bring a trucker to his knees. You start with a flavorful beef salad topped with a sweet vinegar sauce and then experience a variety of courses ranging from fondue to grilled sausages wrapped in Hawaiian lot leaf. Service is warm and attentive, and the waiters will show how the various courses should be eaten. For $9.95, there’s probably no greater value anywhere.

Bangkok IV, 3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa. (714) 540-7661. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Bangkok IV is operated by veteran Lucky Teachanarong, and his newest outing is a flat-out winner. Appetizers like taro todd , Balboa mussels, and Thai toasts are terrific, and main dishes like paht Thai (flat noodles pan-fried with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts) and pork with green beans in dry curry paste aren’t far behind. Food tends to be on the sweet side here, but the management will turn up the heat on request.

Dover’s, at the Doubletree Hotel, 100 E. The City Drive, Orange (714) 634-5000. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Dover’s at the Doubletree Hotel in Orange is an eye-catching restaurant with a ceiling over three stories high, but the cooking is often less lofty. Chef Steve Lancaster attempts too much, and the result is an erratic jumble of good and bad. Salmon tartare is wonderfully silky and big enough to share, and appetizers are generally impressive, especially a seafood sausage in a bed of green and white linguini. Entrees lean toward the exotic; avoid the Pacific Rim dishes, (except for the tea-poached salmon, which is great), and pursue the simpler dishes. Dessert is dreary. Ambiance is dressy.

Marrakesh, 1100 W. Coast Hwy., Newport Beach . (714) 645-8384. Open nightly. All major credit cards.

Eat with your fingers without fear of recrimination from your mother at Marrakesh, a Moroccan restaurant in Newport Beach. You sit on cushions at a low table in a tent-like room and manhandle your way through a traditional, multi-course dinner served by waiters in desert garb. Begin with harira , the spicy lentil broth, and assorted salads eaten with local bread. B’stilla , a chicken and egg pie topped with cinnamon and sugar, will follow, and then a choice of main dishes including quail, rabbit and couscous, the grain staple eaten throughout north Africa. It’s a sensual, completely delightful way to spend an evening.

Watercolors, at the Dana Point Resort, 25125 Park Lantern, Dana Point (714) 661-5000. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

California cuisine looks even more exotic at the new, Cape Cod style Watercolors restaurant located in the Dana Point Resort. Chef Peter Striffolino has put together a menu filled with local delicacies, like Pacific oysters baked with leeks and spinach, Sonoma goat cheese with red oak lettuce, and medallions of lamb with red cabbage and papaya chutney.