Dining Like a King . . . or Like a Duke

I once helped entertain the Duke and Duchess of Windsor; not personally, of course, but when a grand dinner was given for them at the Chateau de Versailles, I was behind the scenes in the kitchen.

We were warned that helpings must be sparing and the cooking severely plain. To maintain her reputation as one of the world’s most elegant women, the duchess kept an iron control on her diet.

Luckily it was spring, so we could call on the new season’s vegetables, combining them with baby lamb in the famous French stew navarin. Stew, however, is a misnomer for this ambrosial mixture of tiny carrots, turnips, potatoes and onions, with the first fresh peas and haricots verts. Really no accompaniment is needed, though I enjoy a generous supply of homemade herb bread to sop up the sauce.

The first course was an easy choice, for fat white asparagus was in season. We topped it with an olive oil and Sherry wine vinaigrette and hard-cooked egg for color. The combination is equally tempting with green asparagus, or you may want to substitute canned hearts of palm.

Dessert, however, was more difficult as we were too late for fine pears and too soon for fresh strawberries. So to remind the Duke of Windsor of his childhood, we served a typically English dessert--Rhubarb Fool. Fool is a fluffy mousse of fruit puree, egg custard and whipped cream folded together and piled in a stemmed glass. The tart acidity of rhubarb, backed up by a dash of ground ginger, is a perfect balance to the bland cream.

NAVARIN OF LAMB

1 (2 1/2- to 3-pound) boned lamb shoulder

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons oil

18 to 20 baby onions, peeled

3 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cloves garlic, chopped

Bouquet garni of sprig thyme, few stems parsley and 1 bay leaf tied in cheesecloth bag

3 cups veal stock, about

3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

12 baby carrots, peeled, or 3 large carrots, peeled and quartered

3 baby turnips, peeled and quartered

2 pounds baby new potatoes, peeled

1 pound haricots verts or baby green beans, cut in 2-inch lengths

2 cups shelled fresh peas or 1 (10-ounce) package tiny frozen peas

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Cut lamb in 1 1/2-inch cubes, discarding sinew and most fat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large casserole. When hot, brown lamb on all sides, few pieces at time. Remove, then add onions and brown. Remove onions and set aside. Return meat to casserole. Sprinkle flour over meat. Bake at 425 degrees until flour is browned, about 5 minutes.

Let casserole cool slightly. Add tomato paste, garlic, bouquet garni and enough stock to cover meat. Cover casserole and bake at 425 degrees 1 hour. Add tomatoes and carrots with more stock to cover, if necessary. Cover and continue to simmer in oven another 30 minutes. Skim off any fat. Add turnips, potatoes and browned onions. Cover and simmer in oven 10 to 15 minutes longer.

Meanwhile, parboil green beans by cooking in boiling water 5 to 8 minutes, depending on size. Drain, then rinse with cold water. Drain well. Parboil fresh peas in salted water 2 minutes. Rinse with cold water. Drain well. (Frozen peas do not need parboiling.) Lamb, beans and peas may be cooked up to 2 days ahead. Store, covered, in refrigerator.

To finish, bring lamb back to boil on top of stove, if necessary. Add beans and peas. Simmer until tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Taste to adjust seasonings. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings.

Note: In summer, baby zucchini and squash may replace potatoes and turnips in navarin. Add with peas and beans.

RHUBARB FOOL

2 pounds rhubarb

Butter

Sugar

1 tablespoon ground ginger

1 1/2 cups milk

1 egg

4 egg yolks

Dash salt

1/4 cup flour

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup whipping cream, whipped to soft peaks

Cut thin strips of red skin from rhubarb using sharp knife. Immerse in ice water. Cut remaining rhubarb in sticks and place in buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with 3/4 cup sugar and ginger. Cover with foil. Bake at 375 degrees until very soft, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool.

To make custard, scald milk in saucepan. Whisk egg, egg yolks, 6 tablespoons sugar and salt in mixing bowl until slightly thick, about 2 minutes. Stir in flour. Slowly whisk in hot milk. Return mixture to saucepan. Bring to boil, stirring constantly until thickened. Let custard cool, then stir in vanilla.

Puree rhubarb in food processor with custard. Taste and add more sugar if needed. Transfer mixture to bowl. Fold in whipped cream. Spoon into stemmed glasses. May be refrigerated up to 2 days. Just before serving, top each glass with curl of rhubarb. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Any tart fruit such as red or black currants or cranberries may be used.