Bass Lake Lures Recreational Crowd

BASS LAKE, Calif. —  The sleek, powerful boat with water skier in tow roared across Lake Potowotominimac. The skier careened back and forth across the foaming wake.

In the middle of the lake, the boat whirled and lunged headlong towards a small dock. Ashore, half the population of Pechoggin Village watched, paralyzed. The boat screamed past the dock, missing it by inches. The skier raced toward the dock amid a rooster-tail spray.

Miraculously, his skis bounced. He flew into the air and dropped back into the lake--still desperately hanging on to the tow rope.

As boat and skier disappeared, the villagers watching let out a collective sigh of relief. Even for a movie (being filmed by Hollywood) it was a breathtaking feat.

Pechoggin Village faces Lake Potowotominimac and no matter how audiences react to the movie, they should be charmed by the town, the lake and the scenery.

Real Community

Unlike some other famous towns of literature, such as Lake Wobegon and Sauk Center, Pechoggin Village really exists. Sort of. Stripped of its fictional name, Pechoggin Village is actually the resort community of Pines Village, part of the Bass Lake recreational area.

Bass Lake, between Fresno and Yosemite National Park, is actually a reservoir in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. There, farms on flat land give way to rolling hills covered with vast stands of ponderosa pine and groves of giant sequoias protected by the Sierra National Forest.

The region is redolent with gold-mining history. Once prospectors searched for the golden metal, with pick, pan, mule and--in case of good luck--a dependable rifle to help defend their find

Some found gold in such fabled mines as Rich Hill, Texas Flats and Lucky Bill. Others panned the swirling sands of Coarse Gold and Fine Gold creeks to fill their pokes.

Panning It Yourself

Today, visitors can drive through the Mother Lode country on Route 49, numbered to remember the ‘49ers, and visit the remnants of a few mines--or even buy a gold pan and stir up the sandy creeks, searching for their own pokes.

This also is a country that clings almost reverently to its past.

An ancient narrow-gauge steam railroad operates during the summer. Decrepit one-room jails have been turned into museums. Clusters of decaying original buildings in forgotten communities have been refurbished and sell antiques, Western curios (imported from Asia), and hot dogs.

The feel of the Old West can be found on signs around town: Hitching Rail Saloon, Goldmine Jewelry Store, Sierra Sky Ranch, Old Corral Grocery, Gold Rush Realty and Coarsegold Inn.

Central to it all is Bass Lake, whose waters serve a multitude of functions--as a highly popular summer playground for water skiers, boaters and beach lovers, as a power producer for Pacific Gas & Electric, and irrigation for crops in the fertile San Joaquin Valley.

The lake is about five miles long and up to half a mile wide, its shores heavily wooded.

Large Campgrounds

The northeastern shore is the site of Pines Village, and is lined with resort homes, cottage rentals and luxury retreats. The southwestern shore is reserved for half a dozen large campgrounds and scattered picnic areas.

Camping and picnicking facilities are operated as a concession from the U.S. Forest Service by California Land Management, a private firm.

From May to September, camping reservations are recommended. Where the Mono Indians once pitched their wigwams, sites may be reserved through Ticketron outlets.

During our visit to the area, we stayed in Oakhurst, the largest community in the region. We had rooms at the Yosemite Gateway Inn, a motel with terraced gardens, an outdoor swimming pool and a large restaurant with wide windows that offer an excellent view.

We drove along winding, paved roads to the village for lunch one day and ate on the outdoor deck of the Pines restaurant. In the cool, winter air, the lake waters were a perfect mirror.

Trails of Discovery

One of the attractions of the Bass Lake area is the number of trails leading to hidden waterfalls, hilltop vistas and lookout towers.

We walked a short section of the Lewis Creek trail, through a narrow canyon that follows the route of a long-ago flume that once carried lumber from the mountains to a mill in Madera.

A steep descent leads through a cathedral corridor formed by giant ponderosas. At the bottom of the canyon we gazed at Corlieu Falls, which cascades along a 100-foot series of drops. As we started back up, a deer leaped across our path and disappeared in the forest.

The next day we drove to North Fork Village and a small, neatly maintained museum built and operated by the several hundred surviving Mono Indians. The museum is at the intersections of county roads 274 and 225.

The Monos take justifiable pride in exquisite baskets woven by skilled women. Numerous examples of baskets were on display in cases that held other Indian artifacts.

Annual Mono Fair

The Monos hold their colorful Indian Fair in North Fork each August. There are dances, food and crafts and a huge, old-fashioned Western barbecue. Representatives of other tribes throughout the country participate.

Another museum was the Fresno Flats Historical Park in Oakhurst. Fresno Flats was the original name of the town. Mementos of pioneer life are displayed in the second school built in the county.

There is an old jail, a blacksmith shop, a barn, two log houses and old wagons and implements laid out to demonstrate how the pioneer settlers lived.

Old Town, near North Fork, is a similar historical display.

The Bass Lake region hums with activities throughout the summer high season, from early May to late September.

The Custom and Classic car show, June 25-26, displays some of the oldest, oddest and most memorable automobiles ever built.

Loggers Jamboree

Lest it be forgotten that this still is active lumber country, the noisy, rousing Loggers Jamboree at North Fork July 3-4 is an exciting reminder.

Jaunty loggers pit skill and muscle in such roughhouse games as ax throwing, log rolling, double bucking and tree chopping, and hold roaring parties at every local bar.

On July 4, Bass Lake rumbles to the roar of dozens of craft in an annual water parade that climaxes with spectacular fireworks.

If you’re into marathons, join the Bass Lake half-marathon--once around the lake--on Aug. 8.

One of the more fascinating festivals is Indian fair days at North Fork, Aug. 6-7. Some 20 tribes will join the Mono Indians in a display of arts and crafts, food and ancient dances to the throb of tom-toms.

The Bass Lake arts and crafts fair, with 100 booths displaying the works of local artists and artisans, will take place Aug. 13, with open-air entertainment and food.

Warbirds Air Show

The most interesting August event will be the Warbirds international air show at Madera Aug. 19 and 20. It will offer the largest collection of vintage military aircraft in the world, along with bomb runs, fly-bys and parachuting and military exhibitions.

September activities get under way Sept. 4 at Oakhurst with a huge Mountain Peddler’s flea market and craft fair. This is followed on Sept. 17 by a triathlon at Bass Lake.

Simultaneously, Oakhurst lets off steam with the Sierra Mountaineer Days Festival Sept. 16-17, featuring arts and crafts displays and square and barn dances.

Lodging facilities range from primitive campsites to elegant chalets.

Miller’s Landing, on the southwest lake shore, offers housekeeping cabins that sleep four, from $32 to $42 a night.

Across the lake, Pines Resort offers chalet suites and lakeside cabins with kitchenettes for $85 to $115 per night, double occupancy.

At Ducey’s lodge, housekeeping cabins are $24 to $70 per night.

In Oakhurst, the Oakhurst Inn’s rooms, without kitchenette, are $30 to $60 a night, double occupancy. Yosemite Gateway, a Best Western motel with charming terraced gardens, has kitchenette facilities from $54 to $70 per night, double.

It’s smart to make advance reservations. Some facilities do not charge for children under 16.

Forest Service Campsites

The Forest Service campsites are in a couple of dozen campgrounds. Primitive sites, including table, fireplace, toilet pits and stream water that must be treated before use are available free on a first-come, first-served basis.

The attractive camping facilities on the shores of Bass Lake, operated by California Land Management, are $9 a night. They include potable water but do not have hookups for recreational vehicles. Reservations can be made through any Ticketron outlet.

There is an abundance of pleasant restaurants in the area offering mostly American dishes: steak, ribs, fish, chicken, and shrimp. But you can find Mexican and Chinese cuisine, too.

Outstanding is the Elderberry House, in a French architectural-style mansion on a low hill overlooking Oakhurst. It serves superb French cuisine in a splendid setting of cut crystal, white linen and gleaming silver. Service is impeccable. Fixed-price dinners are in the $35 range.

For a nice variety of Chinese fare, try the Jade Gazebo.

Overlooking a Lake

Dining on the terrace of the Pines restaurant overlooking Bass Lake is an indulgence in outdoor beauty. Dinners from $6.50 to $12.75. Sunday brunches include crepes and eggs Benedict.

At Ducey’s, entrees range from $8.75 to $15.50.

In Oakhurst the Snowline offers live dinner music Friday and Saturday nights, entrees from $5.95 to $13.95. The Old Bar features “down-home cookin’ ” and Auntie Nee’s enticing apple pie. Prices: $6.25 to $18.95.

The Viewpoint restaurant, next to the Yosemite Gateway Inn, serves dinners from $6.95 to $21, as well as sumptuous buffet-style breakfasts.

You can find exceptional barbecued catfish at the Rib House.

This is boating and water country. You can rent almost anything--from a self-propelled canoe at $20 a day to ski boats fully equipped for water skiers at $220 a day.

The two most popular marinas are the Pines and Miller’s Landing. Public launch facilities are available at the Pines.

To get to Bass Lake country from Los Angeles, drive north on Interstate 5 and California 99 to Fresno, then take California 41 toward Yosemite. Continue 3 1/2 miles beyond Oakhurst and follow State Highway 274 to Bass Lake and Pines Village. All roads are paved and well marked.