Perserve Corn Taste by Quick Cooking

Is anything lovelier than a tender young ear of sweet corn plucked from a kettle of boiling water, then drizzled with melted butter?

Sure. A tender young ear of sweet corn pulled fresh from the microwave oven. Don’t laugh. It’s true.

One of the miracles of the microwave is that you can pop an ear of corn inside, husks and all, then retrieve it, instants later, simply bursting with sugary goodness. The silks magically come away with the husks, and the corn’s just-picked flavors are all the richer for having been steamed in its natural wrapper. Not for nothing did American Indians make sure their roasting ears were snugly sheathed when they slid them onto hot coals.

The microwave excels at cooking vegetables because it heightens their color, intensifies their flavor, preserves their original texture and, not least, leaves most of their vitamins intact.

Contain Much Water

There’s good reason for this. Vegetables contain considerable water, which the microwave converts to steam. So they cook in their own fragrant vapor, requiring little or no additional liquid, which could leach out precious vitamins or water down flavor.

No vegetable profits more from microwaving, however, than fresh corn on the cob. You can cook as many as six ears of corn at a time. And best of all, you can keep the hot ears coming.

Choose the freshest corn available, and if you can pick your own, so much the better. Small ears will cook faster than big ones, fresh ears quicker than over-the-hill ones, so make sure your corn is of uniform size and vintage. If the husks seem dry, rinse the ears briefly in cool water, then place no more than four ears at a time, one inch apart, on the microwave oven floor. An extra two ears can go on the shelf above, but no more, because the corn won’t cook evenly. Microwave, uncovered, on HIGH (100% power) using the following times as a guide:

1 ear . . . 2 to 3 minutes

2 ears. . . 3 to 4 minutes

4 ears. . . 5 to 6 minutes

6 ears. . . 7 to 8 minutes

At half time, turn ears over and rearrange, moving those on outside toward center and vice-versa. Check for doneness after minimum cooking time by peeling husks back slightly and pressing a few kernels--they should feel springy-firm. Continue microwaving in 30-second increments until springy-firm. Remove ears from microwave and let stand, in husks, for 3 minutes. Let all diners shuck their own corn at the table and pass butter or one of the following butter sauces to spread on the corn.

HERB BUTTER SAUCE

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter or margarine

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or rosemary

Dash freshly ground black pepper

Place butter in 1-pint microwave-safe measure and cover with wax paper to prevent spattering. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 minutes until melted.

Stir in lemon juice, marjoram, thyme and pepper. Cover with wax paper and microwave on LOW (10% power) 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into heated sauceboat and serve at once. Makes 1/2 cup.

Note: In ovens of less than 600 watts, increase cooking times about 15%.

CHILI BUTTER SAUCE

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter or margarine

1 teaspoon chili powder

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Dash cayenne pepper

Combine butter and chili powder in 1-pint microwave-safe measure. Cover with wax paper and microwave on HIGH (100% power) 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 minutes until melted.

Stir in lemon juice and cayenne. Cover with wax paper and microwave on LOW (10% power) 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into heated sauceboat and serve at once. Makes 1/2 cup.

Note: In ovens of less than 600 watts, increase cooking times about 15%.