THE BEST OF '88

By BETSY BALSLEY

Jan. 5, 1989 12 AM PT

BETSY BALSLEY,

A wonderful cheese and spinach-stuffed chicken breast from a catering firm that specializes in feeding film and television workers on location garnered the most votes in The Times Food staff’s annual search for the past year’s 12 best recipes. But Rose’s Cheese-Stuffed Chicken Breasts from Production Caterers was closely followed by 11 other choices, all of which were only one vote behind. For the past six years, Times Food writers have been keeping notes on recipes they found exceptional as they tasted their caloric ways through the many prepared in our Test Kitchen each year. This year the winners were eclectic in nature, as always, with chicken and apples leading the way as favorite ingredients. Four of the finalists--Margaret Clark’s Guenoc Winery Chocolate Chestnut Gateau, El Cholo Flan, Easy Street Apple Tart and Orange-Apple Pie With Almonds--fell into the dessert category. The gateau came from a story on chestnuts, the flan was a Culinary SOS recipe and the orange-apple pie was a My Best Recipe winner. The tart recipe came from the Easy Street bakery, which supplies desserts for Production Caterers. Two salads also made the Top 12 list. One, Orzo Vegetable Salad, was a My Best Recipe, and the other, Chicken-Celeriac-Potato Salad, appeared in a story on root vegetables in February of last year. Wineries also provided us with some exceptionally good food in 1988. Besides the Guenoc Winery’s gateau, we agreed with patrons at Los Angeles’ San Antonio Winery that Maddalena’s Eggplant Alla Parmiggiana is a real winner, while Cafe Champagne’s Grilled Chicken Breast Sandwich with Tarragon Mayonnaise is popular with visitors to the cafe, which is part of the Culbertson Winery in Temecula. Still other recipes that we found top-notch were Colette’s Potato, Leek and Fennel Soup, which the restaurant, located in the Beverly Pavilion Hotel, shared with Culinary SOS; Genghis Cohen’s Crackerjack Shrimp from Genghis Cohen’s in Hollywood; and a wonderful Thai Barbecue Chicken from a cookbook on Thai food by Sharon Hoy. Picking the top 12 recipes of the year from all the good ones that pass through our Test Kitchen is never easy. Each of us had other favorites we felt deserved a place on the honor roll and, undoubtedly, many of our readers will feel the same way. How could we possibly overlook your favorite? If we did, we’re sorry, but the following 12 recipes provided Times’ readers with a lot of good eating in 1988, and there’s plenty of room for more. Just add your favorites to our list and dining in 1989 will be as good as it was in 1988.

ROSE’S CHEESE-STUFFED CHICKEN BREASTS

1/2 cup frozen chopped spinach, loosely packed

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup cottage cheese

3 eggs, beaten

4 whole chicken breasts, boned, but not skinned

Butter Topping

Yogurt Sauce

Thaw spinach and drain thoroughly. Combine spinach, ricotta, Parmesan and cottage cheeses and eggs. Gently stuff mixture under skin of each chicken breast. Brush generously with Butter Topping.

Bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool and cut in half. Chicken may also be served hot. Accompany with bowl of Yogurt Sauce. Makes 8 servings.

Butter Topping

1/2 cup butter, melted

1 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Combine butter, paprika, garlic powder, salt and white pepper. Makes 1/2 cup.

Yogurt Sauce

6 tomatoes, chopped

1/4 cup plain yogurt

1/2 (1/2-ounce) package basil leaves, finely chopped

4 drops red wine vinegar

Dash salt

White pepper

Combine tomatoes, yogurt and basil. Add vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Makes 2 1/2 cups.

CHICKEN-CELERIAC-POTATO SALAD

1 pound yellow or red potatoes, cooked, peeled and diced

2 cups finely diced peeled celeriac, parboiled until tender-crisp

4 cups cubed cooked chicken

1/2 cup chopped sweet pickles

1/4 cup sweet pickle juice

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup julienned Chinese pea pods

1/2 cup chopped green onions

Salt, pepper

Bibb lettuce

Red radishes

Cool potatoes, celeriac and chicken. Combine in bowl with pickles, pickle juice, mayonnaise, pea pods and green onions. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and let stand in refrigerator overnight.

Mound salad on Bibb lettuce and garnish with red radishes. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST SANDWICH WITH TARRAGON MAYONNAISE

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons crushed dried tarragon

2 tablespoons butter

4 teaspoons minced shallots

2 cups mayonnaise

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

6 (8-ounce) whole boneless chicken breasts

Salt, pepper

6 homemade or commercial sandwich buns

6 lettuce leaves

6 slices tomato, optional

Combine vinegar and tarragon in small saucepan. Bring to boil and cook until reduced by half. Melt butter in small skillet and saute shallots until tender.

Combine mayonnaise, tarragon reduction, sauteed shallots and white pepper, mixing well. Set aside.

Remove all skin and fat from chicken breasts. Pound slightly with fine side of meat tenderizing mallet. Cut in half down natural seam, eliminating any cartilage at center. Season chicken to taste with salt and pepper.

Grill chicken over moderate heat to internal temperature of 180 degrees, turning once and basting with about 1 tablespoon reserved mayonnaise mixture per side. Slice and warm sandwich buns.

Spread inside of buns generously with mayonnaise mixture. Place 2 pieces chicken on bottom of bun and top with lettuce, tomato and other half of bun. Makes 6 servings.

MADDALENA’S EGGPLANT ALLA PARMIGIANA

3 medium-large eggplants, peeled

1 egg

1 cup milk

1/8 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon dried parsley leaves

1/2 teaspoon dried basil leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

Flour

Olive oil

Maddalena’s Marinara Sauce

1 1/2 pounds mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

1 cup grated Romano cheese

Cut eggplant into 1/2-inch thick rounds. Pile eggplant in colander and let stand 45 minutes. Beat egg with milk, then add garlic powder, parsley, basil, salt and white pepper.

Place flour in shallow bowl or on plate. Heat small amount olive oil in heavy skillet. Flour each slice eggplant, then dip in egg mixture and place in single layer in skillet. Saute until lightly browned. Remove and set aside.

To assemble, line 14x11-inch baking dish with 1 cup Maddalena’s Marinara Sauce. Place layer of eggplant on sauce. Cover with mozzarella slices. Add 1/3 cup Romano cheese. Cover with 1 1/2 cups more marinara sauce. Top with layer of eggplant, then cheeses.

Make 1 more layer of marinara sauce, eggplant and cheeses. Cover with foil, supporting with wood picks so foil does not touch cheese.

Bake at 375 degrees 20 to 25 minutes, until heated through and cheese is melted. Cut into squares to serve. Spoon additional marinara sauce over each serving. Makes 12 servings.

Maddalena’s Marinara Sauce

1/2 cup finely grated or ground carrot

1/2 cup minced or ground celery

1/2 onion, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 (28-ounce) cans tomato puree

1/2 puree can water

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

2 or 3 bay leaves

2 teaspoons beef stock base

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Dash garlic powder

Salt

White pepper

Carrot, celery and onion can be ground in food processor or minced by hand. Heat olive oil in Dutch oven. Add carrot, celery and onion and cook until lightly browned.

Add tomato puree, water, basil, bay leaves, stock base, sugar, Worcestershire and garlic powder. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer, uncovered, 20 to 25 minutes. Makes 6 cups.

POTATO, LEEK AND FENNEL SOUP

1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped onion

4 cups sliced leek, white part only

2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced

1/2 pound fennel, fronds removed and reserved, bulb sliced

3 tablespoons butter or oil

4 cups chicken stock

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

1 cup half and half

Saute onion, leek, potatoes and fennel bulb slices in butter over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes. Add stock and bring to boil. Simmer 20 minutes.

Puree potato-leek mixture in blender, or pass through food mill until smooth. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Add half and half.

Return to heat and heat through. Serve in heated soup plates, garnished with reserved fennel fronds, if desired, or serve chilled. Makes 6 servings.

MARGARET CLARK’S GUENOC WINERY CHOCOLATE CHESTNUT GATEAU

Butter

2 cups crumbled canned chestnut puree

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup brandy

1/3 cup whipping cream

1/2 pound bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

3 eggs, well beaten

2 tablespoons flour

Honey Sauce

Line bottom of 8-inch cake pan with parchment paper. Butter pan sides and parchment paper.

Melt 1/4 cup butter in small saucepan. Slowly incorporate well into chestnut puree in medium bowl. Add honey, brandy and cream and continue mixing until thoroughly blended.

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over simmering water. When melted, but only lukewarm, add 1/2 at time to chestnut mixture, mixing well at low speed. Add eggs and blend well, still at low speed. Stir in flour, mixing well.

Pour into prepared pan and bake at 300 degrees 35 minutes or until just set in center. Remove from oven and cool completely in pan on rack.

Unmold onto plate just before serving. Serve with Honey Sauce. Makes 16 servings.

Note: If chestnut puree is not available, 1 (8 3/4-ounce) can chestnut spread (sweetened) may be substituted for 2 cups puree and 1/4 cup honey.

Honey Sauce

1 cup milk

3 tablespoons honey

3 eggs yolks, well beaten

1 teaspoon orange flower water

Warm milk over medium heat until small bubbles appear around edge. Whisk honey into egg yolks, then continuing to whisk, add milk slowly until throughly mixed.

Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until slightly thickened. Do not boil. Cooked sauce should coat spoon.

Remove from heat and strain into small bowl. Stir in orange flower water, cover and chill thoroughly before serving (sauce will thicken somewhat during cooling). Makes about 1 1/3 cups.

Note: Orange flower water is available at specialty food markets.

ORANGE-APPLE PIE WITH ALMONDS

5 to 6 medium green pippin apples

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 1/4 cups sugar

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup orange liqueur

1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest

Orange Crust

1 egg yolk diluted with 2 tablespoons water

1/2 cup finely chopped almonds

Peel and slice apples into thin wedges. Combine with cornstarch, sugar, raisins, orange liqueur and zest. Turn into bottom of Orange Crust. Cover with top crust and brush top with egg wash.

Seal and flute edges. Sprinkle top with almonds. Cut vents on top and bake at 375 degrees 1 hour or until golden brown. (If crust seems to brown too fast, cover with foil.) Makes about 8 servings.

Orange Crust

2 cups flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

3/4 cup shortening

3 to 4 tablespoons orange juice

Combine flour, salt and sugar in small bowl. Cut in shortening until crumbly. Slowly add orange juice while mixing flour mixture.

Add just enough juice until dough sticks together. Divide into 2 portions. Chill dough while making filling.

Roll each dough portion thinly and use 1 to line bottom of 9-inch pie plate while reserving other for top crust.

ORZO VEGETABLE SALAD

4 quarts water

3 beef bouillon cubes

2 cups orzo

3 green onions, sliced

1 cup sliced pitted black olives

1 cup thinly sliced celery

1/2 cup thinly sliced green pepper

2 large tomatoes, peeled and cubed

1 (6-ounce) jar marinated artichokes, drained and sliced

1 cup mayonnaise (or enough to coat orzo)

Salt

White pepper

Bring water and bouillon cubes to boil. Add orzo. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 10 to 12 minutes, stirring several times. Drain and cool.

Combine orzo, green onions, olives, celery, green pepper, tomato and artichokes. Stir in mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Chill at least 2 hours. Makes about 10 cups.

EL CHOLO FLAN

2 (14-ounce) cans sweetened condensed milk

2 cups milk

1/2 cup cream of coconut

1/2 cup corn syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla

6 eggs

1 cup sugar

Water

Place sweetened condensed milk, milk, cream of coconut, corn syrup, vanilla and eggs in blender container. Blend thoroughly, or whisk vigorously with wire whip to blend well.

Melt sugar in heavy skillet over low heat, stirring occasionally to keep caramel from scorching. Add few drops of water, little at time, stirring until caramel is of spreading consistency.

Distribute caramel evenly among 8 (4 1/2- to 5-ounce) custard cups, tilting cups to spread caramel evenly. Or spread in 13x9-inch rectangular baking pan.

Pour flan into caramel-lined cups or pan and place in shallow baking pan with 1/4-inch hot water. Cover with foil and bake cups at 350 degrees 50 minutes, or baking pan 60 minutes, or until firm. When cool, place in refrigerator about 1 hour.

To serve, run knife around outer edges of cups or pan and invert on serving platter. Makes 8 servings.

EASY STREET APPLE TART

5 cups prepared apples

Lemon juice

1/4 cup sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 (9-inch) Tart Shell

Crumb Topping

Peel apples. Cut into eighths, removing core section. Sprinkle lightly with lemon juice. Add sugar, flour, cinnamon and nutmeg and mix well.

Place apples in Tart Shell, mounding in center. Cover evenly with Crumb Topping and pack apples securely into shell.

Bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes. Remove to rack to cool. Remove outer rim of tart pan to serve. Makes 1 (9-inch) tart.

Tart Shell

1 cup flour

3 1/2 tablespoons sugar

3 1/4 ounces butter

1/2 lightly beaten egg

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Mix flour and sugar in bowl. Cut butter into small pieces, add to bowl and mix until crumbly. Add egg and vanilla.

Form dough into ball, wrap securely and refrigerate 4 hours or overnight. Roll out dough and fit into 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom.

Crumb Topping

3/4 cup flour

3/4 cup brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 pound butter

Combine flour, sugar and cinnamon in bowl. Cut butter into small pieces, add to bowl and mix until crumbly.

THAI BARBECUE CHICKEN

2 teaspoons curry powder

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup coconut milk

3 tablespoons minced cilantro, including stems

3 tablespoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons minced onion

1 tablespoon sugar

1 (3- to 4-pound) chicken, quartered

Apricot Sauce

Combine curry powder, turmeric, salt, pepper, coconut milk, cilantro, garlic, onion and sugar. Rub chicken with marinade. Marinate in refrigerator at least 4 hours or overnight.

Roast chicken at 350 degrees 45 minutes. Broil 3 to 5 minutes on each side or until dark golden brown. Serve with Apricot Sauce. Makes 4 servings.

Apricot Sauce

1/2 cup apricot preserves or jam

1/4 cup apricot nectar

1 teaspoon Thai- or Chinese-style chile sauce

Combine apricot preserves, apricot nectar and chile sauce in small saucepan. Heat, stirring, until mixture is blended and comes to boil. Makes 3/4 cup.

GENGHIS COHEN’S CRACKERJACK SHRIMP

1 pound shrimp (41 to 50)

Marinade for Shrimp

1 cup cornstarch

2 cups cottonseed or peanut oil

Ginger Sauce

2 cups shredded lettuce

Shell and devein shrimp. Rinse in cold water and pat dry. Place shrimp in Marinade for Shrimp 30 minutes.

Place cornstarch in bowl. Coat shrimp well with cornstarch, using colander to remove excess cornstarch from shrimp.

Heat wok until very hot, then add 2 cups oil. Heat to 375 degrees. Drop 1/2 shrimp into hot oil and cook 2 minutes. Remove with strainer and add remaining shrimp. Cook until golden. Drain.

Drain oil from wok (reserving for future use). Place Ginger Sauce in hot wok. Bring to boil. Add shrimp and toss to coat evenly with sauce. Pour shrimp mixture over lettuce. Makes 6 servings.

Marinade for Shrimp

1 tablespoon Shaoshing wine or Sherry

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 small egg white, beaten

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/2 tablespoon oil

Combine wine, salt, beaten egg white, cornstarch and oil.

Ginger Sauce

1 tablespoon catsup

1 tablespoon chicken broth

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon chili sauce