Middle East Dignity

Middle Eastern restaurants generally come in two styles. There are the little neighborhood places where the food is terrific but the atmosphere is nonexistent. And there are the emporiums of atmosphere, which come complete with belly dancers.

Now there’s another option. Al Amir, 5750 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 931-8740, is a large and dignified restaurant done in tones of beige. The service is of the hushed and hovering sort, the upholstered chairs are comfortable and the silverware is lovely. The menu, like those in most Lebanese restaurants, is heavy on hot and cold hors d’oeuvres and salads, and you could easily make a meal of these little dishes (which are mostly in the $4 to $6 range). Those interested in authenticity will be happy to note that there are four dishes of raw lamb, as well as grilled lamb testicles, lamb brains and lamb kidneys. The less adventurous will be happy to fill up on stuffed grape leaves, tabbouleh, baba ghannouj and the like. The usual grilled meat, fish and poultry dishes round out the menu.

A meal at Al Amir is a pleasant way to spend an evening. But it would certainly make a perfect place to stop for lunch when spending an afternoon at the County Museum of Art.