A Chorus of Chopsticks

In the mood for Chinese? Harbor Village, 111 N. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park. (818) 300-8833. Style: A barn of a restaurant serving an excellent selection of dim sum. Setting: Bright lights, noisy children, clattering carts. Recommended: Har gow; jook ; siu mai. Cost: $10-$30.

King Dragon, 170 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 652-4187. Style : ‘50s-style Cantonese chow updated to suit the ‘80s. Setting: Pink leatherette booths, huge neon dragon. Recommended: Shrimp fried rice; moo goo gai pan ; sweet and sour pork. Cost: $10-$35.

The Mandarin, 430 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 272-0267. Style: This perfect all-occasion restaurant has now reopened with a much-expanded menu. Setting: Younger, livelier with an open exhibition kitchen. Recommended: Peking duck; chive-stuffed pancakes; beggar’s chicken. Cost: $20-$35.

Mandarin Chef, 20021 Roscoe Blvd., Canoga Park. (818) 882-8550. Style: Sister of the Beijing-California Beef Noodle King in China specializing in noodles. Setting : Blue-sprigged wall paper; European-style art and Italian fountain for coin tossing. Recommended: Sichuan-style beef noodle soup; dim sum. Cost: $4-$10.

Tse Yang, 151 S. Doheny Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 278-8886. Style: A seriously expensive restaurant that offers a whole new experience in eating Chinese. Setting: Dark room of carved mahogany inlaid with 24-karat gold, mirrored ceilings, pink linen, red roses, hot towels. Recommended: Peking dumplings; spring and autumn rolls; Peking duck. Cost: $25-$50.