The next time the mood strikes you...

The next time the mood strikes you to hop off the merry-go-round, consider Grenoble.

Hidden in the folds of the surrounding Alps are 20 family operated inns of unusual warmth, joined together under the banner Dauphine-Alpes-Hotels.

The smallest of the lot is the cheery L’Auberge du Morge. With only eight rooms and a cozy bar, Auberge du Morge is operated by Monsieur and Madame Gil Bouvier in the Gorges de Chailles near the ski area of St. Pierre de Chartreuse.

In the summertime guests cast for trout in a stream that flows nearby; they ride and hike to meadows choked with wildflowers. The inn’s rustic rooms--some with timbered walls--feature beds with down comforters and windows that frame tables with umbrellas on the lawn.

The village of Les Echelles, which L’Auberge du Morge calls home, is surrounded by forests and peaks that rise beyond the timber line. Besides scenery, L’Auberge du Morge is renowned for its outrageously fine cuisine (lodging with two meals figures out to 190/252 francs per person a day).

Other inns belonging to the Dauphine-Alpes group feature beamed ceilings and spectacular views of villages that appear like toy towns in the distant valleys. Some are old coaching inns that are scattered through mountain ranges where only the voice of the wind disturbs the peace of a summer day.

At Hotel Les Amis de la Montagne an ex-barn serves as the dining room. In winter the cost of lodging, meals and unlimited skiing comes to 190/230 francs per person a day. From the front door of Hotel Les Amis de la Montagne, one may step aboard a gondola for a ride to Les Deux Alps.

The ancient village of Venosca, with its cobbled streets, boasts barely 200 inhabitants. Those looking for discos and night life would be wise to cross Venosca off their list. The small hamlet is devoted to those in love with the mountains and the peace that’s found in such a setting. Hosts Luc, Eric, Yves and Marc Durdan serve as guides during summer climbs and as ski instructors in winter.

The apres -ski activity at Hotel Les Amis de la Montagne revolves around a fire and a slide show and stories told by the Durdan family. Each of the 23 rooms comes with bath or shower and meals prepared with garden-fresh produce, grilled meats and fondues that are served in the vaulted dining room with its fireplace grill.

Daily rates at Hotel Les Amis de la Montagne range from 190 francs per person for half-board to 230 francs for full board. A room only for two guests is pegged at 190 francs. In addition, the Durdan family books an all-budget plan for 1,670 francs a week in summer that includes room and full board with wine.

Other vacationers seeking escape from the pressure cooker check in at Hotel de la Poste (between Grenoble and Lyon) on the banks of Lake Bleu in the resort village of Charavines near the Chartreuse Massif. Dating from the 19th Century, Hotel de la Poste served earlier as a Pony Express station whose old stables keep alive the century-old atmosphere.

Cocktails are served in the cafe/bar, La Tonnelle, with frescoes by a noted French artist. Serving as chef at Hotel de la Poste, proprietor Maurice Desigaux takes a passionate interest in preparing traditional cuisine and, if coaxed, will provide cooking lessons for his guests.

Others pedal off on bike excursions into the haunting stillness of the Chartreuse Massif. In addition there are tours of Vercors, visits to the caves of Choranche, a mountain farm, the old town of Grenoble and the famed monastery above Grenoble where monks prepare the popular Chartreuse liqueur.

At Hotel de la Poste, rates figure out to 220 francs a night, double occupancy, with an extra charge for meals. Larger rooms feature twin or double beds, private baths, telephones and TV.

Other vacationers give high points to Chateau de Montbel in a valley that’s garnered for itself the title of “Emerald of the Alps.” Monsieur and Madame Roger Vincent’s inn consists of 16 rooms, mostly with bath or shower. This in the village of St. Pierre-d’Entremont, where fewer than 1,000 inhabitants go about their daily routines divorced of stress.

Chateau de Montbel provides warmth as well as exceptional meals that are prepared by its proprietor. Fondue and raclette parties are an ongoing affair in this striking village only a short drive from the bustle of Grenoble. A network of hiking, riding and biking trails fan out from the little inn, and excursions are booked regularly to other Alpine villages and secret trout streams.

Chateau de Montbel, named for a castle that was destroyed during the reign of Louis XIV, is a former barn that the owners converted into an inn in 1932. With 16 rooms (all with shower or bath), it’s a pleasant Alpine hideaway whose wood-panel dining room draws outsiders as well as guests of the inn.

Roger Vincent is known as a chef par excellence, having won awards for his house specialties, including a duck fillet in red wine and butter. Rates for half-board range from 200 francs per person in the low season to 235 francs per person in the high season, including wine with meals and a welcome drink.

The majority of these hotels are within one hour of Grenoble, with good roads and a sense of losing oneself in a wilderness far from the stressful time in which we mortals live. Each of the 20 inns belonging to the small hotel group has its own charm and personality. More important, because each is family operated, the guest is made to feel especially welcome.

For details write to Michele Gluszyk, c/o Dauphine-Alpes-Hotels, 14 Rue Dominique Villars, 38000 Grenoble, France.

Reader Recommendations

Hawaii--Josh Bettencourt, Gardena: “Visited Maui and found a small condo group near Kaanapali. All units on the ocean offer a fantastic view. A one-bedroom starts at $60 a day for two persons. Fully furnished. A washer/dryer in each unit. They also have two bedroom units and penthouses. Reservations can be made by calling Irene Nakalani during the day (213) 516-1253 or (213) 329-5938 evenings.”

California--Karletta Moniz, Bel Air: “My husband and I have just spent our anniversary at the finest B&B; ever. It’s in a peaceful meadow on the outskirts of the Northern California town of Point Reyes Station. The cottage is beautifully appointed. Breakfast items are left in the fully equipped kitchen. The innkeeper, Karen Gray, welcomes children. Rates start at $85 midweek and go to $115 on weekends. Address: P.O. Box 56, Point Reyes Station, Calif. 94956.”

California--Barbara Parkhurst, Los Angeles: “An exceptional B&B; called The Robins Nest, P.O. Box 1408, San Andreas, Calif. 95249. Robin Brooks, the owner, does an excellent job of making guests feel at home. She’s a great cook, goes to a lot of trouble to fix unusual dishes. Everyone is welcome to raid the refrigerator. A beautiful location with lots to do: panning for gold, hiking, horseback riding. Off the beaten track. The cottage was a private residence for 88 years until its purchase in 1983 by Robin Brooks. Rates: $65/$95.”

France--Robert Newcomb, Santa Barbara: “Motoring through Brittany we stumbled upon the charming Hotel des Remparts, Rue des Vierges, Vannes. It’s inside the ancient wall of the city of Vannes, overlooking manicured gardens outside the wall. Guy, the innkeeper’s handsome son and general assistant, was eager to learn more about California and could not do enough for us. On the south coast of Brittany, Vannes is at the head of the gulf of Morbihan, a scenic recreation area of many small islands and places of interest; a sailing paradise. Rate about $30 U.S. a night.”

England--Gladys and Leon Mudd, Paso Robles: “Self-catering flats in the center of London. One- and two- or three-bedroom apartments equipped with everything necessary for housekeeping. Trains, buses, tube stations, shops and launderettes close by. One bedroom with a living/dining room, kitchen and bathroom costs 175 to 210 April 1 to Oct. 31. Contact P. C. Tustin & Co. Ltd., 94 York St., London WIH IDP.”

We regret that only a select few recommendations can be used. They must be brief (typewritten or printed). Only one recommendation per reader, please. Note: Recommendations will not be used unless prices and addresses are included.