In Beautiful Company at Campanile

Mark Peel was the first chef at Spago. Nancy Silverton made the pastries famous. Together they have two children and the terrific La Brea Bakery. Now they’ve got a restaurant as well: Saturday their long-awaited Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 938-1447 will finally open its doors.

It’s a beautiful building with a huge courtyard, a fountain and an open kitchen. And it’s a beautiful menu too: rustic, straightforward and very appealing. These are just a few of the dishes: a wonderful salad made with walnut bread and artichoke hearts ($5.50); warm poached mozzarella with pesto and tomatoes ($7.25); deep fried squid, lemons and onions surrounded by braised squid ($7); fettucine with mascarpone, olive oil, asparagus and bread crumbs ($8.50); crisp flattened chicken with parsley salad ($18); rosemary-charred baby lamb with minced tomato and shallot sauce; fish soup with lobster, clams, shrimp, squid and bass ($22), and braised beef shanks with pureed olive potatoes ($16). The wine list limits itself to American and Italian wines, a third of which sell for less than $20.

The restaurant will be open for dinner only Monday-Saturday, but next month a cafe will open in the courtyard serving breakfast and lunch.