Meatless Wonders

There’s more to vegetarian dining than veggie burgers.

City Restaurant, 180 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 938-2155. Style: Kicky California for foodies. Setting: Urban barn. Recommended dish: Vegetarian platter-- dal , made either from black beans, lentils or chick-peas; naan (Indian flat bread); raita (yogurt and vegetables); a chutney, plus steamed, grilled and batter-glazed vegetables. Cost per person: $16.50.

Fragrant Vegetable, 11859 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. (213) 312-1442. Style: Chinese vegetarian specializing in mock meats and exotic vegetable dishes. Setting: Lettuce green with Chinese wooden sculptures. Recommended: White fungus and coconut soup; Peking ribs; Buddha’s cushions, sheets of tofu wrapped around black moss. Cost per person: $15-$25.

Golden Temple of Conscious Cookery, 7910 West 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 655-1891. Style: Vegetarian by the chef who fed Michael Jackson. Setting: Swamis, saints and stained glass. Recommended: Mushroom-walnut pate , lima bean soup, corn bread. Cost per person: $10-$20.

Paru’s, 9545 Reseda Blvd., Northridge. (818) 349-3546. Style: Family South Indian featuring glamorized grains and curries. Setting: Tiny scrubbed storefront. Recommended: Uttappam , thick pancake with tomatoes and bell peppers; masala dosa , crepe rolled around flavored potatoes; chick-pea curry. Cost per person: $8-$15.

Patina, 5955 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 467-1108. Style: International with intellect. Setting: Fresh and bright. Recommended dishes: Garden menu--semi carpaccio of summer vegetables, two-colored tomato tart with Nicoise olives, stuffed baby turnips with shiitake and oyster mushrooms, and raspberry gratin with citrus sauce. Cost per person: $42.