Greater Tuna

Sorry, Charlie, only good-tasting tuna gets to be served in these restaurants. Camelions, 246 26th St., Santa Monica. (213) 395-0746. Style: Romantic California-French. Setting: English rustic with cozy fireplace. Recommended dish: Rare charred tuna with black bean sauce, $21.

Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 938-1447. Style: Rustic Italian serving trendy, simple and delicious food. Setting: High-tech romantic. Recommended dish: Appetizer of rare grilled tuna Nicoise, $7.75.

Patina, 5955 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 467-1108. Style: International with intellect. Setting: Fresh and bright. Recommended dish: Peppered tuna, $19.50.

Pine Avenue Fish House, 100 W. Broadway, Long Beach. (213) 432-PINE. Style: The Pine Avenue Grill reincarnated into a seafaring creature. Setting: Cheery chintz. Recommended dish: Tuna steak sandwich, $8.95.

Riva, at Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, 1700 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. (213) 458-6700. Style: Italian seafood and a view, sort of. Setting: Hotel standard. Recommended dish: Grilled tuna, $22.50.