MOM FOOD : Remembering the women who shaped our tastes. The recipes are the least of it. : We Remember Mama : One From The Heartland

When I was young and our family was invited out to dinner, there was always a catch. “Bring one of your delicious pies for dessert,” our hosts would ask my mother. If for some reason they forgot to ask, she’d wonder aloud, “Have I lost my touch?”

She was an expert pie baker, famous among her friends for her chocolate meringue, graham cracker cream, banana, butterscotch, coconut, apple and peach pies. But what everybody really wanted my mother to bring was lemon meringue pie.

Her crust was flaky and perfect, and somehow she always got the balance between the lemon’s sweetness and tartness just right.

It was also a pie that became important in my own development as a cook. Most summers I worked with my aunt, cooking at her resort, Multnomah Lodge, in Wisconsin Dells, Wis. When I was 15 years old she gave me a challenge: “Learn how to make lemon meringue pies like your mother makes,” she said, “and I’ll give you a surprise.” All winter I practiced until I had the recipe down pat. The next summer we served my aunt’s guests pies just like my mother made. The surprise was a Christmas trip to Pompano Beach.

To this day, lemon meringue pie triggers memories of summers in Wisconsin Dells, a winter beach vacation . . . and my mother.

WINIFRED DEANE’S LEMON MERINGUE PIE

7 tablespoons cornstarch

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups boiling water

3 egg yolks, beaten

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

1 (9-inch) baked pie shell

Meringue

Combine cornstarch, sugar and salt in saucepan. Stir in boiling water until blended. Heat and stir until boiling and mixture is clear. Place pan over simmering water and cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add small amount of hot mixture beaten egg yolks and return all to pan, stirring until blended. Cook 2 minutes, stirring. lemon juice, butter and lemon zest. Cool to room temperature.

Turn filling into pie shell. Spread Meringue over filling, being careful to seal to edges of pie. Bake at 400 degrees 8 to 10 minutes until peaks are golden brown. Cool before slicing. Makes 8 servings.

Meringue

4 egg whites

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/2 cup sugar

Beat egg whites and cream of tartar until frothy. Continue beating until soft peaks form. Slowly add sugar, beating until stiff but not dry.

Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane