Entertaining : Roman Holiday

Whoever coined the phrase “holiday madness” was no doubt cooking a meal for company. Given the demands of the season, laboring in a hot kitchen--particularly when a winter day may reach 90 degrees--is about as festive s shopping on Christmas Eve. What home chefs need for times like these is a modern-day miracle: the cook-ahead holdiay feast.

Two respected local cookbook authors, Viana La Place and Evan Kleiman (who is also co-owner of Angeli, Angeli Trattoria and Angeli Mare restaurants), have obliged us. Drawing recipes, with a few variations, from their three books--”Cucina Fresca,” “Pasta Fresca” and “Cucina Rustica”--they have created a voluptuous menu based on rustic Italian dishes, full of fresh vegetables, served at room temperature and, best of all, cooked completely a day or so in advance.

Traditional favorites still have their place, of course. But for light cheer without the heavy hassle this year, take a Roman Holiday.

Melanzane con Cipolla

(Grilled Eggplant With Sweet Onion)

1 large glossy, unblemished eggplant1 sweet red or white onion, peeledExtra-virgin olive oilSalt to taste2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly slicedRed chile-pepper flakes1 bunch fresh oregano leaves or 1 tablespoon dried oregano to tasteRed wine vinegar Cut off and discard root and blossom ends of eggplant. Cut eggplant into crosswise slices, approximately 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch thick. Set aside. Cut onion crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Heat outdoor grill or ridged stove-top griddle until very hot. Lightly brush eggplant and onion slices with olive oil. Place slices on grill, oiled side down, in one layer. Brush sides facing up with additional oil. Cook until grill marks are clearly visible and vegetables begin to soften. Turn eggplant and onion, and continue cooking until they are just soft but not burned. Remove from grill and set aside separately. Continue grilling vegetables until all are cooked.

Use serving platter for marinating the vegetables. Layer half eggplant on platter and lightly salt to taste. Place 1 thin slice of garlic on each slice of eggplant. Sprinkle red chile-pepper flakes and oregano to taste over eggplant (use dried oregano sparingly). Drizzle vinegar and olive oil lightly over eggplant. Top eggplant layer with half grilled onion slices. Add condiments as for eggplant layer, finishing with vinegar and oil. Make second layer of eggplant slices and another of onion slices, sprinkling each layer with herbs, oil and vinegar. Set aside at room temperature to marinate at least 1 hour.

Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

Torta Rustica

(Rustic Country Tart)

6 packages (10 ounces each) frozen chopped spinach1 tablespoon butter1 tablespoon olive oil1 small onion, peeled and minced4 eggs1 cup grated Parmesan cheese1/2 cup bread crumbsCoarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste4 large red bell peppers, or 1-pound can good-quality peeled red peppersSoft Tart Dough1/2 pound Italian fontina cheese with rind removed, sliced1/2 pound Black Forest ham, sliced 1/8 inch thick1 egg beaten with 2 teaspoons milk Cook spinach according to package directions. Drain in colander, and rinse under cold water to cool. Drain spinach and squeeze out excess moisture. Spinach should be almost completely dry. Set aside. Heat butter and oil together in small skillet. Saute minced onion until translucent and beginning to color. Mix together spinach, sauteed onion, eggs, Parmesan, bread crumbs, salt and pepper in bowl. Set aside.

To peel peppers, place over gas burner or under broiler and turn with tongs until blackened all over. Place in plastic bags, close top and let peppers sweat 10 minutes. Remove from plastic bag and remove skins under cold running water. Lay on paper towels to dry. Carefully remove stems; discard seeds and white ribs. Cut peppers to lie flat in one piece. Set aside.

To assemble tart, roll out 2/3 of Soft Tart Dough on parchment, wax paper, aluminum foil or plastic wrap into circle about 14 inches in diameter. Line medium mixing bowl with plastic wrap. Invert dough circle into bowl. Peel off top layer of paper or plastic wrap and pat dough against sides of bowl. Place thin layer of spinach mixture on dough, then red pepper, fontina and ham. Continue layering in pattern you like, but finish with layer of spinach at least 1/2 inch thick.

Roll out remaining dough on parchment, wax paper, aluminum foil or plastic wrap into circle large enough to cover filling. Invert dough onto tart filling and peel off paper or plastic wrap. Trim edges of circle; it should not overlap first dough layer. Brush edge of circle with egg wash and fold over extra dough from the larger circle (which will become top of the tart). Make sure edges are well sealed. Carefully invert tart onto baking sheet and remove bowl. Peel off plastic wrap that lined bowl. If desired, use leftover dough to make leaf shapes; lightly brush one side of leaves with water and place on tart, wet side down.

Bake tart in preheated 375-degree oven for about 40 minutes or until crust is deep golden brown. If you want a shiny crust, brush tart with egg wash before placing in oven and once or twice during baking. Serve tart at room temperature, cut into wedges. Serve 10 to 12.

Soft Tart Dough

4 cups all-purpose flour1 teaspoon salt2 sticks (8 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces2 eggs2 egg yolks1/3 cup milk, approximately By hand: Combine flour and salt in large bowl. Make well in center and add butter, eggs and yolks. Lightly blend butter mixture with fingertips. With knife or pastry blender, cut dry ingredients into wet ingredients until dough is crumbly. Gradually add milk, tossing with fork, until dough comes together. Dough will be soft. Gather into ball. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 2 or 3 days. When ready to roll dough, place on parchment, wax paper, aluminum foil or plastic wrap to facilitate handling.

Food processor: Combine flour, salt and butter in food processor fitted with metal blade. Process with short pulses until mixture is crumbly. Add eggs and yolks with short pulses; do not overmix. Add milk gradually with short pulses until dough begins to clump. Remove dough and proceed as above.

Makes enough for one 14-inch tart.

Insalata di Riso Selvatico

(Wild Rice Salad)

1 cup long-grain white rice1 cup wild rice1/4 cup pine nuts8-10 sun-dried tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup black oil-cured olives, pitted1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves1/2 cup olive oil1/4 cup red wine vinegarCoarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Cook rices separately in abundant amounts of boiling salted water in large pot for 35 to 45 minutes or until grains are tender yet still firm to the bite, about 7 to 10 minutes for white rice, 30 to 40 for wild rice. Drain rices in sieve and run cold water over until cool to touch. Drain thoroughly. Toast pine nuts lightly in skillet over low heat until golden brown. Let cool. Combine drained rices in bowl with pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, parsley, olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Toss gently to mix. Serves 4 to 6.

Tutto Colori

1 pound ripe tomatoes, cut into small dice1 yellow pepper, seeds and membranes removed, cut into small dice2 small zucchini, trimmed and cut into small dice1/2 hothouse cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into small dice1 tender carrot, peeled and thinly sliced1 small red onion, finely diced1 bunch fresh basil leaves, choppedDried oregano to taste1 pound imported tubetti1/2 teaspoon minced fresh red chileSalt6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil3/4 pound fresh mozzarella, dicedFreshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese Combine tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, cucumber, carrot and onion with basil and oregano in serving bowl. Cook tubetti in abundant boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and transfer to serving bowl containing other ingredients. Add chile, salt and olive oil, and toss. Sprinkle with mozzarella, toss again; serve with grated cheese.

Serves 4 to 6

Broccoli in Lemon and Red Chile Pepper

1/4 cup olive oil1 fresh small red chile, seeds removed, finely chopped, or 1/2 teaspoon crushed, dried red chile pepper3 canned flat anchovy fillets1 bunch broccoli, about 1 1/2 poundsCoarse saltJuice of half a lemon, about 2 tablespoonsFreshly ground pepper to taste To make dressing, put olive oil, chile and anchovies in small saute pan. Heat oil until it is just warm and anchovies melt. Turn off heat and set aside until needed. Trim tough ends of broccoli. Peel stalks with paring knife.

Separate broccoli flowerets into generous pieces. Cut stalks into julienne about same size as flowerets. Cook broccoli in boiling, salted water to cover until bright green and tender but crisp, about 10 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Dry well on paper towels. Place broccoli in rustic serving bowl. Dress with cooled, flavored oil and the lemon juice. Toss gently and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serves 4.

Cauliflower in Salsa Verde

2 heads cauliflowerSalsa Verde Cut cauliflower in half. Cut out and discard woody core with sharp knife. Break cauliflower into flowerets. Cook in abundant amount of boiling, salted water just until tender. Cauliflower should still have snap. Drain in colander and rinse under cold running water until cauliflower feels cool to touch. Drain thoroughly. Toss in bowl with Salsa Verde. Allow to marinate in refrigerator for at least 1 hour. This can be made up to 2 days ahead. Toss before serving. Serves 6 to 8 as accompanying vegetable, 4 to 6 as salad.

Salsa Verde

1 cup flat-leaf parsley, minced2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced2 tablespoons capers, coarsely chopped2-4 canned flat anchovy fillets, minced1/4 cup lemon juice3/4 cup fruity olive oil In small bowl, mix together parsley, garlic, capers, and enough minced anchovy to give sauce a salted punch. Stir in lemon juice and olive oil. Mix thoroughly. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 1 week. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

Crostata di Pinoli

(Pine Nut Tart)

2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour1/2 cup sugar1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted and chopped very fine6 ounces unsalted butter, melted1/2 cup water1/2 cup sugar6 ounces cream cheese1 cup ricotta3 egg yolks and 2 whole eggs2 ounces pine nuts Crust: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Mix flour, sugar and chopped pine nuts in small bowl. Add melted butter and, using rubber spatula, gently mix in water, 1 1/2 cups sugar, cream cheese, ricotta, egg yolks and eggs. Press into 10-inch-by-3-inch tart pan or springform pan with removable bottom. Chill in refrigerator for a few minutes; place round of aluminum foil or parchment paper over pastry and fill to top with dried beans or rice. Bake 15 minutes; remove beans or rice and parchment, and bake for additional 10 minutes or until golden brown. Cool in pan.

Filling: In heavy-bottomed saucepan, boil water and sugar for 2 minutes to make sugar syrup. Set aside. In food processor, cream together cheeses and egg yolks. With machine running, slowly pour in syrup.

Pour cheese mixture into prepared pastry shell. Sprinkle whole pine nuts evenly over top. Bake tart for 30 to 40 minutes or until golden but still slightly soft in middle. Cool to room temperature on cooling rack. Serves 8 to 10.

Pere al Vino Rosso

(Caramelized Pears in Red Wine)

1 bottle rich red wine, such as merlot or Barolo3/4 cup sugar1 orange peel spiral, white pith removed6 Bosc pears, peeled, cored and sliced into wedges1 pound mascarpone3 tablespoons orange zest Pour wine into a small non-reactive saucepan. Add sugar and orange peel and bring to boil. When sugar completely melts into wine, turn heat to bare simmer and carefully drop pear slices into wine. Poach slices about 8 minutes or until just tender when pierced with tip of sharp knife. Remove pear slices and set aside. Reduce wine mixture by at least 1/3 over high heat. Set aside to cool. Serve pears warm or at room temperature with reduced wine mixture and large dollop of mascarpone. Garnish with orange zest. Serves 6.

Wines--preferably red--for this meal should be as simple and straightfoward as the food: Chianti, Besaujolais or merlot. For those who must have white--Chardonnay. Food stylist: Diane Elander, accessories: Tesoro, Beverly Hills.