Psst! Pedroncelli Just Keeps Getting Better

GEYSERVILLE, Calif. —  Up here in the sparsely traveled reaches of northern Sonoma County, back off Highway 101 on Canyon Road, sits the modest home of one of the country’s best-kept secrets: a winery that continually puts out excellent wine and charges a fair price.

The Pedroncelli winery, acquired by the family in 1927 (they started making wine under their own name in 1947), is one of those rare wineries that has been in business so long many consumers have forgotten it in the rush for the latest “in” wine. With no new story to tell, it’s just another winery. Perversely, its reasonable prices may be the reason it doesn’t get the respect it deserves.

In the last three years, sales of Pedroncelli’s wines have sunk, from a peak of 130,000 cases in ’88 to 90,000 cases last year. Yet in that same period, the wines, under wine maker Gary Martin, have improved.

The wines are better, prices remain reasonable, yet sales are off. Brothers Jim and John Pedroncelli can’t figure it out.

On a warm February morning, I visited Pedroncelli and found the brothers huddled around a table with a label designer and marketing people. A new label, some in the company believe, would alert the public to the improved quality of the wine.

Pedroncelli is known for its red wines--wine for pasta. Martin, a Fresno State graduate, has a good understanding of the Pedroncelli style: light but with exquisite varietal definition.

The reason for this is the modest use of oak. At a time when some wineries are releasing wines that smell more of two-by-fours than of the grape, Pedroncelli still makes wine with fruit character and enough tartness to match with food.

In particular, I liked the lovely ’88 Zinfandel ($7) for its spice and depth; the ’88 Pinot Noir ($9) for its cherry-minty character, and the ’87 Cabernet ($9.50) because it is loaded with fruit and complexity in a lighter, more approachable style.

“We don’t want too much oak in these wines,” said John Pedroncelli. “We want them to taste like the grape variety.”

A case in point is a soon-to-be-released ’89 Merlot, Pedroncelli’s first with this variety. The wine is marvelous, complex and fruity with overtones of green tea and cherries. When released in spring, it will be priced at about $10. Or less.

Someone once said that 95% of all the wine made in the world is consumed within hours of when it’s bought. The Pedroncellis agree: Their wines probably aren’t often stashed in cellars. But when they are, the wines are a treasure. Pedroncelli’s ’73 Cabernet, tasted a year ago, was still fresh and lively. And a 1978 Pedroncelli Reserve I poured at a dinner last week was the hit of the evening, even though it was up against some great Napa 1978s.

The white wines are also excellent values, including the ’89 Chardonnay ($9.50), with good fruit and little oak. And the ’89 Sauvignon Blanc ($7) is wonderful matched with seafood, with its lightly herbal, citrus aroma.

The drop in sales at Pedroncelli has been, in part, because of lower production of Pedroncelli’s generic wines.

“We have, by choice, been producing less of the Sonoma Red and Sonoma White,” said Jim. “It’s hard to make those wines for that kind of money, so we’re really not looking to increase our numbers as much as just make better wines from the key varietals that are best produced in this area.”

The two generic wines sell for $6 for 1.5 liter bottles and are superb everyday wines and great values. The red is two-thirds Gamay, with Zinfandel and Carignane for depth and color; the white is a blend of Chenin Blanc and French Colombard.

The winery also has some older wines still for sale: ’81 and ’82 Reserve Cabernets. Prices for these wines are $15 each. Both are approaching their peak of drinkability, yet may be bought for one-third the price of some of today’s still-young, still-rough ‘87s.

Wine of the Week

1986 Pedroncelli Brut Rose ($9.50)-- A one-time-only experiment for the Pedroncellis, this attractive sparkling wine is a great match for luncheons. Made in the dry brut style, it has a raspberry aroma and a wonderful fresh-fruit taste. This is as good as most French Rose Champagnes at a fraction of the price.