If It Moves, Grill It

Are you a grill watcher? Agung, 3909 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 660-2113. Style: Family-run Indonesian serving soothing satays and soft music. Setting: Tiny and tidy, decorated with travel posters and batik. Recommended: Grilled chicken, pork and lamb satay, grilled tongue satay, iced coffee with avocado. Cost per person: $9-$15.

Hollywood Canteen, 106 Seward St., Hollywood. (213) 465-0961. Style: Blue collar canteen from la-la land--they even have a back room for celebs to slip in. Setting: Streamlined Deco with burgundy booths and a curved counter that’s perfect for people watching. Recommended: Grilled mushroom on herbed sourdough; vegetarian eggplant steak; creme brulee. Cost per person: $12-$30.

North Beach Bar & Grill, 111 Rose Ave., Venice. (213) 399-3900. Style: Macho meals for low cholesterol counts. Setting: An unfussy ‘40s feel. Recommended: Oysters Rockefeller; filet steak; beer-batter shrimp. Cost per person: $15-$35.

Packard Grill, 4301 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park. (213) 223-1200. Style: Grill food with body. Setting: A former Packard agency, filled with Packard memorabilia. Recommended: Grilled chicken salad; Southwestern chicken chile pesto; chocolate bourbon cake. Cost per person: $7-$13.

Red Car Grill, 8571 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 652-9263. Style: The former terminus of the Red Car’s Sherman line serving no-nonsense nostalgia. Setting: A Musso’s for the ‘90s. Recommended: Shortribs with mashed potatoes, smoked sturgeon, turkey hash. Cost per person: $12-$25.