Molding to Perfection

Unflavored gelatin gives a cook control over the flavor--and sweetness--of a molded salad or dessert. Depending on other ingredients in the recipe, dishes can be made that not only appeal to the eye and palate but also conform to dietary restrictions.

Plain gelatin comes ground into moderately fine pieces; flavored gelatins are sweetened with sugar or non-caloric artificial sweeteners, and the particles are significantly smaller. The larger fragments of unflavored gelatin may be dissolved using three techniques:

Over direct heat: Sprinkle gelatin over cold liquid (Step 1), then place over low heat and stir constantly until dissolved (Step 2).

Adding hot liquid: Sprinkle gelatin over a small amount of cold liquid, soften for about five minutes, then add boiling liquid and stir until dissolved.

Mixing with sugar: When recipe contains at least one tablespoon of sugar, combine with dry gelatin, add cold liquid, then either place over low heat or pour in boiling liquid and stir until dissolved.

Whichever method is used, the mixture must be stirred slowly until the particles of gelatin are no longer visible before any additional cold liquid is added. If the gelatin is not completely dissolved, it will form a rubbery layer on the bottom of the mold when the gelatin sets.

It takes one package (a scant tablespoon) of unflavored gelatin to gel two cups of liquid. Setting time depends on the sweetness or tartness of the mixture, the shape and size of the mold, and the temperature and humidity of the refrigerator. Mixtures high in sugar will gel softer than those that are tart or savory. Although ice may be used to speed up the gelling process, the result will be less stable than a mold that forms slowly in the refrigerator.

One to two cups of solid foods may be added for each two cups of gelatin mixture, but this will increase the time it takes the mold to gel. Foods must be drained well or they will dilute the gelatin.

To keep foods suspended, the gelatin mixture must be chilled to the consistency of unbeaten egg whites before they are added. Otherwise celery, apples, pears, bananas, avocados and peaches will float. Grapes, most citrus and canned fruits, most cooked meats and vegetables tend to sink.

A few foods--fresh pineapple, kiwi, papaya and figs--cannot be used raw because they contain enzymes that prevent the gelatin from setting. When these fruits are heated, however, the enzymes are inactivated.

You can arrange foods in a design by pouring a small amount of chilled gelatin into the bottom of a mold, then pressing pieces of food down into it in the desired pattern. Fold the remaining food and gelatin mixture together (Step 3) and carefully spoon it into the mold.

To mold gelatin in layers, chill each layer until it feels tacky to the touch before adding the next layer. If the gelatin is too firm the layers will not adhere; if they are too liquid, they will blend together. The heaviest layers should be added last so they will be on the bottom when unmolded. Allow to set several hours or overnight.

It’s best to use molds with simple shapes for gelatins incorporating foods. The mixtures will be easier to unmold and the design will still be evident.

Some sources suggest lightly coating the inside of the mold with oil, but this leaves a film on the gelatin. A better method is simply to rinse the mold with cold water and add the gelatin mixture while the mold is still wet.

Advance preparation of molded salads and desserts can work to the cook’s advantage. As gelatin ages, however, it gradually loses some water and begins to get rubbery. Gelatin served within 24 hours of preparation will have the best texture.

To loosen gelatin molds, dip the mold briefly in warm water to the depth of the gelatin mixture (Step 4). This quickly melts the gelatin in direct contact with the mold. Remove the mold from the water and loosen the edges with the tip of a paring knife (Step 5).

Place a serving plate, rinsed with cold water, over the mold (Step 6), then invert both so the plate is on the bottom (Step 7). Shake gently and the gelatin should slip out of the mold (Step 8). The moist plate makes it easy to move the mold if it needs to be centered.

MOLDED FRUIT SALAD

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin

1 (29-ounce) can sliced peaches

1 cup white Zinfandel

1 cup thinly sliced banana

1 cup sliced strawberries

Sprinkle gelatin over 1 cup water in medium saucepan. Stir over low heat until gelatin dissolves, about 3 minutes.

Drain peaches, reserving juice or syrup. Add water to peach liquid to measure 2 cups. Stir, along with wine, into dissolved gelatin. Chill, stirring occasionally, until mixture is consistency of unbeaten egg whites.

Fold in sliced peaches, bananas and strawberries. Pour into 6-cup mold and chill until set. Unmold and garnish as desired. Makes 6 servings.