Sweet--and Low

Sweet potatoes are available throughout the year, but they’re usually trotted out only for the holidays and then are quickly forsaken in favor of all the chic new vegetables.

This is a shame. Sweet potatoes are so delicious and bright-looking (to say nothing of their high vitamin content) that they improve any meal.

The sweet potato has no botanical relationship to the potato; the former is a member of the morning glory family, while the potato is related to eggplants, tomatoes and chiles. Despite a superficial resemblance, it has no relationship to the yam either. (Sweet potatoes are a New World plant, and yams are native to Asia.) The “yams” found in most markets are actually just another variety of sweet potato.

There are many kinds of sweet potato, but two are most commonly seen. The paler one is less sweet and becomes crumbly when cooked, much like a white potato. The other variety--often called a yam--has dark, orange-brown skin and vivid orange flesh that is sweet and becomes even sweeter when cooked. Its texture is moist, not crumbly.

Sweet potatoes contain more minerals, calcium and Vitamin A than white potatoes--and are more versatile. Try baking, microwaving, boiling, sauteing, deep- or oven-frying, or making chips out of them. Or use the cooked, pureed flesh of the sweet potato in cakes, quick breads, muffins, pancakes, casseroles, pies, cookies, puddings and soups.

When buying fresh sweet potatoes, choose those that are medium-sized with firm, smooth, unbruised skins. You can store them in a cool, dark place with a temperature of 55 degrees for up to three weeks. Otherwise, refrigerate sweet potatoes and use them within a week.

Because this souffle has proportionately more substance than egg whites, it’s light yet rich-tasting--without any fat at all. Serve it with turkey, chicken, game and pork.

SWEET POTATO AND APPLE SOUFFLE

3/4 cup sweet potato puree (about 1 large sweet potato, cooked)

1 Golden Delicious apple, peeled and finely chopped (best done in food processor)

3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

1/4 cup dark corn syrup

1 tablespoon dry Sherry

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 large egg whites

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Process sweet potato puree, apple, sugar, corn syrup, Sherry, cinnamon and salt in food processor until smooth. Or combine in mixing bowl with wooden spoon.

Beat egg whites in small mixer bowl until frothy. Add lemon juice and beat until whites hold shape but are still moist. Stir 1/4 of egg whites into sweet potato mixture. Fold in remaining whites.

Transfer to greased 6-cup souffle dish. Smooth surface with spatula. Place dish on baking sheet. Place on rack set in lower third of 400-degree oven. Bake about 30 minutes, or until souffle is browned around edges. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

These fritters are pan-fried, which gives them an amazing crispness without an excessive amount of fat. Serve them as nibbles with drinks or as a garnish with game, poultry, lamb or pork. The recipe can be easily halved or doubled, depending on your requirements.

SWEET POTATO FRITTERS

1 large sweet potato, scrubbed but not peeled

4 large egg whites

1/4 cup flour

1/8 teaspoon allspice

2 teaspoons light brown sugar

2 large green onions, split lengthwise, thinly sliced

Generous 1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Peanut oil

Shred sweet potato (best done in food processor). Combine in mixing bowl with egg whites, flour, allspice, brown sugar, green onions and salt and pepper to taste. Stir with fork to combine well.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 10-inch non-stick skillet. Use 1 tablespoon mixture for each fritter, patting gently to form compact 2-inch circle. Drop fritters, small batch at time, into hot oil and cook until browned on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels, then to 200-degree oven to keep warm while remaining fritters are cooked.

Add more oil as necessary, preheating before adding fritter batter. (Can be made several hours in advance. Keep at room temperature. Reheat in 350-degree oven in single layer on baking sheet until hot, about 20 minutes.) Sprinkle lightly with salt, if desired. Serve hot. Makes 32 (2-inch-diameter) fritters.

Crisper and crunchier than most cookies, these are also cholesterol-free.

AMY’S SWEET POTATO

COOKIES

2 cups chopped pecans

1/2 cup each mashed sweet potatoes

1/2 cup flour

Sugar

1 large egg white

1 teaspoon vanilla

Dash salt

Combine pecans, sweet potatoes, flour, 2/3 cup sugar, egg white, vanilla and salt in mixing bowl. Mix well with wooden spoon. Shape 1 tablespoon each dough in ball and roll in sugar. Lightly press into place on greased baking sheets, leaving 3/4-inch space between them.

Bake at 350 degrees in center of oven until lightly browned on edges, about 20 minutes. Cool on racks. (These become crisp on cooling.) Store in airtight container. Makes 24 (2 1/2-inch) cookies.