At Last, Large-Size Styles That Are Less Bulky, More Revealing

The latest looks in large-size fashions put one myth to rest, that body-revealing styles are off limits to women Size 16 and larger. The clothes, seen last weekend at the California Mart’s Plus Size fashion shows, were form-fitting and flat-out sexy.

Designers implemented flattery in many forms for the plus-size market. Among fall ‘91’s slimming details: shapely seams from shoulder to hem on dresses, vertical-striped fabrics, strategic color blocking, back-slit and knee-baring skirts and roomy tunics paired with skinny leggings.

White-hot trends that sometimes take many seasons to infiltrate large-size lines were well represented. The color-block influence--squares of color separated by strips of black “windowpane” trim--came alive in sportswear from A.C. Sport. Tops were featured over black pants or skirts, a popular fashion strategy to hide such figure problems as thick midriffs. BB USA’s line was flush with au courant zip-front jackets topping narrow-cut skirts.

In the Blanco Negro line, black fabric with white dashes, blocks and flame-stitch patterns were used in flyaway dusters paired with tapered pants. Rated R II’s fluid sportswear in muted earth tones revived the big top, signaling the return of an item popular in the mid ‘80s.

The chemise, a spring staple that promises to continue into fall, is a particularly smart dress choice for large-size fashion plates because it accents a broad shoulder line, skims over the midriff and tapers at the hem. Vicki Vi’s royal-blue knit style with a centered wave of black was especially noteworthy. Chez of California’s coat dresses with jewel-quality buttons, and an innovative short suit in lively houndstooth patterns, were among the best of the show for day-into-evening attire.

Local store buyers were abuzz after the show about more than just the winning styles. Most appreciated the fact that the clothes were paraded down the runway on large-size models.