THE WINE LIST

When somebody hands you a wine list with the phrase “Cellar list available upon request,” there’s only one thing to do: Request it. That’s where you’re sure to find the sleepers that the “short list” neglects.

From Checkers’ cellar list, delicate white wines such as 1989 William Hill Oregon Riesling ($19) and 1989 Carmenet Colombard ($15) are fresh and delightful accompaniments for light dishes. Attractive lighter reds include 1990 Beaujolais-Villages from Duboeuf ($16) and the 1986 Carneros Quality Alliance Pinot Noir ($42). For a Chardonnay richer than those on the regular list, try 1989 Saintsbury ($29); for a more delicate Chardonnay, there’s ’88 Keenan ($27).

Other sleepers: the rich, flavorful 1989 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc ($22); the exotic 1987 Foxen Pinot Noir ($29); the complex 1986 Chave Crozes-Hermitage ($22); 1986 Chateau La Cardonne, an elegant Bordeaux from a good vintage ($21), and the spicy, dry 1988 Willm Gewurztraminer from Alsace ($24). There are also a number of white Burgundies and dessert wines.

A nice added touch to the cellar list: Thirteen table wines are available in half-bottles. By-the-glass choices are also good and include 1989 Cuvaison Chardonnay ($7.50) and 1988 Zaca Mesa Reserve Pinot Noir ($6.25).