San Diego Spotlight : Gastronomic Adventure Unfolds Like an Artichoke

Fold back the leaves of an artichoke and you discover . . . more artichoke leaves, at least until you come to the succulent, secret heart hidden beneath a chevaux-de-frise of thistle-like bristle.

Treat La Jolla’s new Trastevere as if it were an artichoke--which would not be unreasonable, since an artichoke preparation is the signature dish--and you discover a cooking tradition of unexpected nuance with each leaf plucked. At the very heart is one of the few truly antique cooking styles that has persisted in contemporary times, the cuisine of the ancient and still extant Jewish quarter of Rome.

Trastevere, which takes its name from an old section of Rome that formed the heart of the city before it exploded into a megalopolis in this century, offers an interesting menu of current Italian cooking augmented by a list of dishes alla Giudia , or in the Jewish style. Because the Jewish community in Rome predates the Diaspora and is considered the oldest continuous settlement outside Israel, this style is thoroughly Italian in its basic approach and devoid of the Eastern European influences most commonly encountered in Jewish cooking in this country. The differences from standard Roman cuisine come primarily from observance of the kosher laws that regulate food selection and preparation; the most basic examples would be the absence of shellfish and pork, and the prohibition of serving meat and dairy products in the same dish or meal.

Trastevere, which occupies the site of the long-running but now-defunct temple of French classic cooking, L’Escargot, does not observe kosher laws, but proprietor Maurizio Lattanzi said that only olive oil is used in cooking.

The Lattanzi family, which emigrated from Rome to New York, operates two standard Italian restaurants in Manhattan and two others that do observe rigorous glatt kosher laws, which among other things require the presence of a rabbi in the kitchen to supervise all aspects of preparation.

The restaurant’s list of Jewish dishes is relatively short and sometimes difficult to differentiate from standard Italian cooking, but those items sampled were nothing short of superb. The most classic of all, the carciofi alla Giudia , is an excellent preparation of deeper flavor than its brief list of ingredients might suggest. Fresh artichoke hearts still encased in the innermost and most tender leaves are simply fried with garlic in plenty of hot olive oil until the leaves take on a crisp texture and nut-like flavor. During the frying, they are pressed down in the pan to assume a flower shape. Much of the oil sauces the dish, and the garlic flavor is intense and welcome.

There also is a strong taste of salt, problematic in these days: Salt unquestionably enhances the flavor of food, but the majority of San Diegans seem to strictly monitor their intake. The kitchen employs salt freely, and unless or until Trastevere adjusts to local sensitivities, those who abjure salt should tell the server.

Artichokes, in this case shredded and cooked nearly until they melt, also enter the scaloppine con carciofi , a veal dish also finished with onion, garlic and a creamy-textured sauce similar to that in the familiar piccata style. This is a good, mild dish, likeable for the delicacy of both meat and garnish.

Again from the Jewish list, but altogether bolder, are the abbacchio alla Romana , possibly the best baby lamb chops available in San Diego County. Sauteed and finished with a bit of brown sauce flavored with rosemary and garlic, these were so tender and beautifully flavored that they approached perfection.

Other offerings from the Jewish list include gnocchi grattinati , potato dumplings flavored with basil and dressed with fresh tomato sauce; the short macaroni called penne with fresh tomatoes, basil and shreds of bitter radicchio lettuce; tortelloni stuffed with forest mushrooms and veal, again in tomato sauce; a half-chicken seasoned with lemon, garlic and rosemary; salmon in a strong sauce of pearl onions, garlic and white wine, and orata con uvetta , or red snapper in a sweet-sour sauce of raisins and vinegar.

The larger (if by no means extensive), non-Jewish-style offers a sterling starter called spiedino , or triangles of fluffy, omelet-like cheese mixture doused in a lick-the-plate brown sauce studded with capers, bits of prosciutto and crushed anchovy. The house salad, while simple, is beautifully composed and flavored.

On a recent visit, a waiter proposed an appetizer of imported fresh porcini mushrooms, virtually unheard of here; sauteed and finished with brown sauce, garlic and parsley, they were tasty, but the bill brought sticker shock. Three large mushrooms cost $15.95, or more than some entrees, and the server should have mentioned this at the outset.

Among pastas, the capellini Maurizio tops angel hair with shrimp, radicchio and garlic. There are also capellini primavera (with vegetables), linguine in white clam sauce and bucatini amatriciana , or hollow spaghetti (the shape is, simply, fun) in a deliciously heady sauce of tomato, onions and pancetta bacon.

An elegant entree choice is the vitello Trastevere, a chop pounded thin, breaded, fried to a gorgeous shade and topped with wedges of peppers and tomato. It is a rather grand version of breaded veal.

The kitchen makes the desserts, including a ricotta tart much lighter than it looks; extravagant ricotta-chocolate chip cream puffs bathed in hot chocolate sauce, and pandolce , a dense, traditional fruit cake that may not suit every taste.

Trastevere has done an excellent job of redecorating L’Escargot’s tiny space. Rich wood walls surround a room divided into two spaces by a clever, six-foot wide glass clock that tells the time on one side and supports the bar shelves on the other. The excellent wine list emphasizes Italian vintages but would do well to include a few more moderately priced selections.

RASTEVERE 5662 La Jolla Blvd., La Jolla 551-8610 Lunch weekdays, dinner nightly Entrees $10.95 to $18.95. Dinner for two, including a glass of wine each, tax and tip, about $55 to $95 Credit cards accepted