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Palm Pak, P.O. Box 4517-16, Inglewood, Calif. 90309, (800) 388-PALM

Imagine a poor exile, and imagine an angel suddenly sweeping down out of a better land and setting before him a mighty Porterhouse steak an inch-and-a-half thick, hot and sputtering from the griddle; the precious juices of the meat trickling out and joining the gravy.

When Mark Twain wrote that, he was “A Tramp Abroad,” dreaming of home. Here in Los Angeles, a great Porterhouse does not require the assistance of angels. All you have to do is make a reservation and drive to West Hollywood. There you’ll find the Palm, a noisy, high-powered steakhouse that proudly employs some of the rudest waiters in town.

But now you can get great steaks without reservations or attitude. The Palm now delivers--via airmail. Order the Palm Pak III and you get four perfectly marbled and aged 22-ounce USDA Prime Porterhouse steaks, packed in dry ice and sent by Federal Express. All you have to do is light the grill and toss on the steaks. It’s quicker than valet parking.

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The Porterhouse pack costs $105, including special packing and delivery charges. New York sirloins and filet mignons are also available.

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