The Pedigreed Catfish

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Catfish Fillets With Cilantro Sauce Corn on the cob Cherry tomatoes on arugula Blue corn tortillas Watermelon slices

Mention catfish and many people think of an oily, strongly flavored scavenger fish with dark flesh. But the farm-raised catfish now being sold in markets are a completely different variety. Mildly flavored, these catfish have firm, moist white meat that lends itself to virtually any presentation.

Because of its firm texture, it’s an ideal variety for pan-frying. A combination of butter and oil tastes good and keeps the butter from burning; if you prefer to use oil alone, choose peanut oil for its high smoking point. After seasoning the fish, dust lightly with flour to help seal in the juices. Add the fish to the skillet in a single layer and do not allow the pieces to touch. Pan-fry over medium-high heat; if the heat is too low the fish will absorb oil and become greasy. Shake the pan during cooking to prevent fillets from sticking. Keep a close eye on the fish; if it seems to be browning too fast, reduce the heat. Be careful not to overcook--the fish takes only a few minutes to fry. Turn the fish once, top with cilantro sauce and cook another one to two minutes.

Corn, which is now abundantly available, is a natural accompaniment for catfish. For stove-stop cooking, drop the corn into boiling water and cook uncovered three to five minutes. To cook in the microwave, spread butter on the corn and wrap ears individually in plastic wrap. Twist ends. Microwave on high three to four minutes per ear. Turn halfway through cooking. Let stand two to three minutes. Cooking time will vary with size of the corn.

For salad, why not try whole cherry tomatoes with arugula? Chilled watermelon makes the perfect dessert for this summertime meal.

CATFISH FILLETS WITH CILANTRO SAUCE

Staples

2 large cloves garlic

Salt, pepper

Flour

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons oil

Shopping

1 bunch cilantro

1 small onion

4 medium catfish fillets

1 lemon

1 small piece ginger root

1 small serrano chile

1 small bottle coriander seeds

Optional Side-Dish Shopping

Corn ears

Cherry Tomatoes

Arugula

Blue corn tortillas

Watermelon

1. Remove leaves from 1 bunch cilantro. Squeeze 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Mince 2 tablespoons onion. Mince 1 tablespoon ginger root. Mince 1 teaspoon garlic. Mince 1 small serrano chile.

2. Add cilantro leaves, lemon juice, onion, ginger, garlic, chile and 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds to food processor bowl. Process until pureed. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Season 4 medium catfish fillets to taste with salt and pepper. Dredge fillets with flour, shaking off excess.

4. Add 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons oil to large skillet. Pan-fry fish over medium-high heat until browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn.

5. Spoon cilantro sauce over top of fillets, spreading to cover evenly. Loosely cover and continue to saute just until fish flakes easily when tested with fork, 1 to 2 minutes. Garnish with thin lemon slices and serve with blue corn tortillas, if desired.

Makes 4 servings.