THE HOME COOK : The Classic Picnic

The best treatise I know on the subject of picnics is Claudia Roden’s book, “Everything Tastes Better Outdoors” (Alfred A. Knopf: 1984).

She writes: “Americans know the pleasures of open spaces. They cherish memories of hunting and fishing trips and of wild forests and peaceful prairies. Everyone has spent magical moments at the beach or in the countryside, and everyone loves the rituals that gather people outdoors--clambakes, oyster roasts, Election Day barbecues, race day picnics, football games, church suppers and Fourth of July celebrations; all these are important and joyful events. And sitting in the back yard, surrounded by clouds of smoke emanating from a great roast turning slowly around a spit means happiness.”

All of us have our own special idea of what makes a picnic. As far as I’m concerned, you don’t need to be in the most poetic glade or pastoral countryside (although you can’t picnic in a bank parking lot or a shopping mall). The food needn’t be perfect either--just wholesome and good. What you do need, however, is the appropriate picnic gear. I don’t take anything fancy, but I always try to remember lots of napkins, a paring knife and a bottle opener. I know that, these days, most containers can be opened without one, but there’s nothing as awful as being on a picnic, thirsty as a dog, and discovering that you need an opener for the bottle you’ve brought. So I take it, even if I don’t need it.

If this were to be my very last picnic, I would like to eat Fried Chicken, potato chips, sweet pickles, whole tomatoes with salt, crisp lettuce leaves, fruit and James Ormsby’s Devil’s Food Cake. James Ormsby’s Devil’s Food Cake is the American cake--moist, dark, full flavored, with a very rich chocolate frosting. This is not a diet cake--you may need to run 10 miles uphill after eating it. Covered, this cake keeps well at room temperature for three days, refrigerates well for one week and is fine frozen for as long as two months.

FRIED CHICKEN

2 (2 1/2- to 3- pound) chickens, cut up

1/2 cup flour

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

6 tablespoons shortening

Use only chicken drumsticks, thighs, wings and breasts--freeze remaining pieces for chicken broth. Combine flour, salt and pepper in paper bag and shake to mix well. Place chicken in bag, 3 pieces at time, and shake to coat each piece thoroughly. Remove pieces, shaking off any excess coating, and place on wax paper.

Melt shortening in large skillet. Heat until drop of water sizzles in shortening. Add chicken pieces in single layer and fry until brown on all sides, using tongs to turn pieces. When all pieces are browned, lower heat, cover skillet and cook about 15 minutes. Uncover and let cook another 10 minutes.

Check for doneness by making small deep cut into thick part of thigh; if meat looks pink, cook another 5 or 10 minutes. Some of salted flour will come off during frying, so salt lightly and pepper during frying process. Remove from skillet and cool. Refrigerate until needed. Makes 4 servings.

JAMES ORMSBY’S DEVIL’S FOOD CAKE

1 1/4 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature, softened

2 2/3 cups sugar

4 eggs, at room temperature

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (Dutch process or non-alkalized)

3/4 cup hot water

3 cups cake flour, sifted

1 1/4 cups buttermilk

Devil’s Food Frosting

Butter 3 (9-inch) cake pans and line with wax paper, then butter wax paper.

Cream butter and sugar in large mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Add eggs, 1 at time, beating well after each addition. Add salt, vanilla and baking soda. Mix well.

Combine cocoa and hot water, whisk until smooth. Add cocoa mixture into butter mixture. Mix until well blended and smooth. Add flour slowly and beat 1 minute. Add buttermilk and beat 1 more minute. Spread batter equally into prepared cake pans.

Bake at 350 degrees 25 to 30 minutes, or until wood pick comes out clean when inserted in center. Remove and let stand 10 minutes, turn out onto racks to cool completely before frosting. Frost and fill with Devil’s Food Frosting. Makes 1 (3-layer 9-inch) cake.

Devil’s Food Frosting

4 egg yolks

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup boiling water

1 tablespoon vanilla

1 pound bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 pound unsalted butter, at room temperature, softened

Whisk egg yolks in mixing bowl. Whisk in sugar until blended. Put bowl of yolk mixture over saucepan filled with 1/2 cup boiling water and stir constantly until mixture thickens slightly. Remove from heat and add vanilla. Cool.

Melt chocolate in bowl over simmering water, stirring until completely melted.

Add butter to yolk mixture in 3 or 4 additions, creaming after each addition. (Mixture may look like it is going to separate, but beat briskly and it will smooth out.)

Add melted, cooled chocolate to butter mixture, whisking until smooth and spreadable. Cover and refrigerate leftover frosting. Use to frost cookies, or melt and spoon over vanilla ice cream.