Fantasies in Vogue

THE MOVIE: “Paris Is Burning.”

THE SETUP: This documentary tracks transvestites and transsexuals (pictured) at several voguing balls, where they dress in their fantasy of choice.

THE LOOK: Unlimited variations on “drag.” As filmmaker Jennie Livingston reveals, at drag balls men don’t dress only to vamp as women. Their goal is to pass for a real version of whatever character they are imitating, be it military man, schoolboy, high-fashion woman or corporate CEO. There are contests at the balls, where judges vote on the best entry in these and other categories.

The film shows how taste in cross-dressing varies with the generations. The older transvestites favor Las Vegas showgirl looks: feather boas, hats, dresses coated in sequins and bugle beads, and pounds of pancake makeup, eye shadow, lipstick and false lashes. Younger cross-dressers in their 20s opt for more sophisticated looks. A short straight skirt, silk blouse, chunky earrings, high-heeled pumps and toned-down makeup will do.

A whole other look is worn by voguers, or dancers, who incorporate moves inspired by the models on the pages of fashion magazines. They typically wear loose-fitting men’s clothes such as jogging suits. But one of the most-talented and best-looking voguers, Willi Ninja, wears loose black trousers and a loose white shirt covered with decorative pins.

THE SOURCES: Some transvestites invest their money in high-fashion labels, some wait for sales, some sew their own. Stealing, or “mopping” clothes from stores is also part of this scene. So intense is the interest in designer labels that one of the “houses” to which some voguers belong is named after Yves Saint Laurent, the French fashion king.

THE PAYOFF: While original costuming has become a dying art in feature films, this documentary delivers an eyeful to anyone interested in creative dress. It also carries a powerful message about the relationship between character and clothing.