The World of Ribs : Bones of Contentment

There are all sorts of ribs in this world. Big, juicy ribs slow-cooked until the meat is ready to fall off the bone. Slender, crusty ribs that take serious gnawing. Even flat, cross-cut ribs that barely show their bones.

And contrary to what a lot of us think, there’s more to ribs than good old American barbecue. In Turkey, a slab of ribs gets rubbed with mint and garlic, skewered and then slowly cooked over a smoldering fire. In India, yogurt, chiles, garlic and ginger coat lamb ribs before they go on the grill. In Africa, pork back ribs are broiled then simmered in peanut sauce with onions, garlic, coriander seeds and chile oil.

What follows are a few recipes from all over.

Grilled marinated lamb ribs are typical of a Turkish dish found at barbecue restaurants called ocak basi throughout Istanbul. The cook threads the ribs on a long metal skewer and cooks them over a smoldering white-ash fire. The ribs are then cut into portions and served with grilled chiles, a fresh lettuce and tomato salad and plenty of beer.

TURKISH BARBECUED RIBS

4 to 6 pounds lamb rib racks

2 cloves garlic, split

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons crushed dried mint

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

Rinse ribs well. Pat dry. Rub entire surface of racks with garlic. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Rub all around with crushed mint. Place flat in container large enough to hold. Drizzle with half of oil and vinegar. Turn and drizzle with remaining oil and vinegar. Let stand overnight or several hours in refrigerator.

When ready to cook, thread rib racks on extra-long skewer, cutting ribs where needed to fit skewer. Grill over medium-hot coals until crispy outside, turning often. Serve with grilled jalapeno chiles, whole small tomatoes, small whole onions and thick eggplant slices, if desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

John Sola, chef at the Grill in Beverly Hills, uses “kosher-cut” short ribs, which means that the ribs have been “squared off,” or trimmed of as much fat as possible, to render them almost perfect rectangles of meat with the bone in. Where do you find kosher-cut ribs? Any butcher will cut them for you. If not, use short ribs.

THE GRILL SHORT RIBS

6 tablespoons oil

2 1/2 pounds kosher-cut short ribs

1 cup cubed onion, celery and carrots

1 bay leaf

1/4 cup brandy, optional

2 cups beef stock

1 tablespoon arrowroot

Salt, pepper

1 onion, cut into 3-inch julienne

1 turnip, peeled and cut into 3-inch julienne

Chopped parsley

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large skillet. Add short ribs and saute 2 minutes on each side, or until well browned. Remove from pan. Set aside.

Add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and heat. Add cubed onion, celery and carrots and bay leaf and saute 5 minutes, or until browned. Place vegetables and short ribs in roasting pan. Bake at 450 degrees 15 to 20 minutes to braise. Add brandy and beef stock. Reduce oven heat to 350 degrees and bake, covered, 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, or until meat falls away from bone. Remove short ribs from pan and set aside. Discard vegetables.

Strain pan juices. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in small skillet. Stir in arrowroot until smooth and slightly thickened. Strain again. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil. Add julienne onion and turnip and saute until lightly browned. Place vegetables on top of short ribs. Pour sauce over vegetables. Garnish with parsley. Makes 4 servings.