The World of Ribs : A <i> Really </i> Old Rib Roast

Here’s a curiosity : possibly the oldest existing rib recipe, from a 10th - Century Arabic manuscript called “The Book of Dishes.” The meat was not grilled but roasted in a tandoor oven over a container of water, a technique that can be mimicked--somewhat laboriously--if you have a large stockpot and a baking sheet or pizza stone. (A more exotic-tasting 10th - Century dish from the same book consisted of a rack of lamb left whole, rather than cut into chops, marinated without the asafoetida and thyme and sprinkled with cumin, coriander, pepper and cinnamon before cooking.)

JAMB MASHWI

(10th-Century Lamb Chop Kebab)

4 lamb rib chops

4 cups vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme

1/8 teaspoon asafoetida or 2 crushed garlic cloves

Place chops in glass or ceramic dish and add vinegar, salt, thyme and asafoetida. Marinate 2 hours, turning at least once.

Place pizza stone or baking sheet in oven. Place stockpot, measuring at least 14 inches across, on stone or sheet. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Carefully remove stockpot using oven mitts. Place oven-proof dish 8 inches square and at least 3 inches deep, filled with water to 2 inches from top of dish, on stone. Arrange small metal rack or several skewers on dish above water to support chops.

Remove chops from marinade and place on rack. Invert stockpot over meat, close oven and roast about 20 minutes. Using oven mitts, carefully remove stockpot, then chops. Makes 2 servings.