THE WINE LIST

Not long ago, a friend tasted a particularly rough, deeply flavored red wine and said, “The only food I can think of that would go with this monster is game.” I remembered the remark when I looked over the wine list at Saddle Peak Lodge--long one of the best in Southern California--because the choices go so well with the exotic meat dishes.

White wines are mostly for aperitifs here. There is a slew of Chardonnays, but it is in Sauvignon Blanc that you find values like 1990 Kunde, $21; 1991 Frog’s Leap, $19, and 1990 Grgich Hills, $21.

Red wine is where this list shows off, starting with 1990 Ravenswood Zinfandel Vintner’s Blend, by the glass, at $4.25. Among other wines perfect for richer game dishes, try 1989 Phelps Vin du Mistral Petit Syrah, $34; 1990 Qupe “Bien Nacido” Syrah, $37.50, or the spectacular 1989 Beringer Howell Mountain Merlot, $50.

The list has about 60 Cabernet Sauvignons, including many older vintages such as 1984 Hanzell, $37.50; 1986 La Jota, $39, and 1980 Ridge Montebello, $80. In a lighter style, try 1989 Santa Ynez Valley Cabernet, $27.50; 1989 Buena Vista Cabernet, $27.50, or 1984 Belvedere “Gifts of the Land” York Creek Cabernet, $28.

There are also two dozen Pinot Noirs, including the 1985 Carneros Quality Alliance, $47.50; 1988 Drouhin-Oregon, $50, and 1985 Smith Madrone, $16.

There may be no perfect wine for the kick-ass chili, but there is a list of excellent beers.