Westwood Boulevard, just south of Wilshire Boulevard,...

Westwood Boulevard, just south of Wilshire Boulevard, has perhaps the highest concentration of Persian restaurants in America. Fortunately for South Bay residents, the cuisine of Persia is well represented locally by Dariush, a Lawndale restaurant that rivals the best in Westwood.

Dariush, named after a popular Iranian singer, was opened by Molly Shabgard in 1987 on the site of a former deli. The restaurant is furnished with comfortable blond wood chairs and prints depicting scenes from ancient Persian poems.

Chef Razmik Hacobiance prepares a flavorful cuisine of centuries-old recipes. His food is not overloaded with spices; instead, the natural flavors of the quality ingredients come shining through.

Among the appetizers are stuffed grape leaves, sauteed eggplant mixed with sesame paste, and sabzi khordan , a refreshing combination of fresh mint, sweet basil, green onions, radishes, Persian feta cheese and walnuts. (All the appetizers cost $3.99 but will easily feed two.)

The most popular entree is the chelo kebab ($8.99), a marinated, charcoal-broiled skewer of choice filet mignon. Like all the entrees, it is accompanied by soup or salad and a large portion of imported Indian rice. The rice is steamed to fluffy excellence, then topped with saffron-enhanced butter.

Another favorite entree is the shish kebab made from baby lamb. The tender lamb ($7.50) comes with rice, as well as broiled tomatoes, onions and bell peppers.

For the vegetarian, there is ghormeh sabzi ($5.50)--an assortment of seasonal vegetables cooked with dried limes and red beans. Like much of the food here, there is a healthy, clear taste to the dish that leaves one with a well-fed--but not stuffed--feeling.

Dariush is at 15651 Hawthorne Blvd. (just south of Manhattan Beach Boulevard). Open Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m., and Sunday, noon-9 p.m. (310) 644-8672.