BOOKS WE LOVE : Hey, Look Me Over : TUSCANY THE BEAUTIFUL COOKBOOK, <i> By Lorenza de’ Medici</i> . <i> (Collins Publishers San Francisco: $45; 255 pp.)</i>

I love cookbooks the way many people love novels, but I seldom end up cooking from them. What I really get from cookbooks is inspiration. That’s why some of my favorite cookbooks have lots of photos. I look at the recipes and how they look in the pictures and then imagine how I’d do things differently.

This year, I found myself looking again and again at Lorenza De’ Medici’s “Tuscany the Beautiful Cookbook.” It’s full of scenic photographs depicting the lifestyles in the provinces of Tuscany and beautiful food photos.

A closer look reveals recipes that are appealing for their earthy simplicity. Some of the food is unfamiliar--even here, in this city of a thousand Italian restaurants. Consider the anchovies fried in dough. It is simply strips of bread dough filled with an anchovy fillet and deep-fried in olive oil. I tried the recipe but took a shortcut and used thawed frozen bread dough. The results were superb.

Hunters’ Eggs (country bread fried in olive oil and topped with fried eggs and a porcini-tomato sauce) is another simple but delicious dish.

CROSTONI DI UOVA ALLA CACCIATORA (Hunters’ Eggs) 12 slices dried porcini mushrooms 5 cups plus 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 small yellow onion, chopped 1 pound plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 small dried chile Salt 6 slices coarse country bread 6 eggs

Soak mushrooms in warm water to cover 30 minutes. Drain and squeeze out any excess moisture. Set aside.

In saucepan over medium heat, warm 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add onion and saute until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, chile, mushrooms and salt to taste. Simmer over low heat until liquid evaporates, about 30 minutes.

In deep skillet over medium-high heat, heat 5 cups olive oil to 350 degrees. Add bread, 2 or 3 slices at time, and fry until golden, about 3 minutes. With slotted spoon, remove to paper towels to drain. Keep warm. Continue frying remaining bread in same manner.

In large non-stick skillet over medium heat, warm remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Break eggs into skillet and fry sunny-side up (without turning).

Arrange fried bread on serving plate. Place egg on each slice and cover with tomato sauce. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

328 calories; 323 mg sodium; 214 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.77 gram fiber.

FIGATTOLE (Anchovies Fried in Dough) 10 ounces risen bread dough (any favorite white bread recipe) 9 canned flat anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained 5 cups extra-virgin olive oil for frying

On floured surface, roll out dough 3/16-inch thick. Cut into 18 (4x2-inch) rectangles. Cut anchovy fillets in halves crosswise. Place half anchovy fillet lengthwise on center of each rectangle. Fold each rectangle in half to form square and press edges firmly together to seal.

In deep, heavy skillet, heat olive oil to 350 degrees. Slip squares into hot oil, few at time, without crowding pan. Fry until puffy and golden, about 3 minutes.

With slotted spoon, remove squares to paper towels to drain briefly. Continue frying remaining squares in same manner.

Transfer squares to warm plate and serve very hot. Makes 18 pieces.

Each piece contains about: 55 calories; 164 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0 fiber.