School Lunches: Hold the Fat

President Harry S. Truman started the federally subsidized school lunch program in 1946. Those meals reduced hunger in America. Now the Clinton Administration wisely has embarked on a mission to cut some of the fat out of school lunches.

Nearly 25 million children eat lunch at school. Most get an unnecessary extra helping of fat from menus that feature such favorites as hamburgers, fried chicken, french fries and pizza. Even pasta, a healthy low-cholesterol alternative, becomes fat-sodden macaroni and cheese at some cafeterias. The fatty fare is pretty standard. The Agriculture Department surveyed 565 schools and found that 99% served lunches that exceeded the federal dietary recommendation for fat consumption. The cooks didn’t scrimp on the salt either. The sodium content was nearly double the recommendation.

The subsidized lunches cost taxpayers $4.7 billion. Meals are provided without charge to nearly half of the public school children who participate in the program. For many of them, it is the best meal of the day. But “best” isn’t good enough: Few school lunches meet federal nutrition regulations, established back when the Reagan Administration tried to cut the budget for children’s nutrition and pass off ketchup as a vegetable.

Children need much healthier choices at school if they are to develop good eating habits. A diet heavy on fat and salt could lead eventually to heart disease, high blood pressure or stroke.

A pinch of prevention could head off many health risks. Some schools already offer low-fat alternatives such as spaghetti with lean ground turkey, baked potatoes, salads, fresh vegetables, fruit, low-fat milk and frozen yogurt.

To encourage more nutritious lunches, the Department of Agriculture is holding nine hearings, including a session today at Fairfax High School in Los Angeles. They will gather information from school officials, chefs and others on how to prepare healthier meals without compromising on taste.

Some healthier foods--vegetables that are fresh or frozen instead of canned, for example--are expected to cost more at a time when few school districts can afford to spend more. Washington should help. Legislation introduced this week by Sen. Patrick J. Leahy (D-Vt.) would appropriate additional money to help schools pay for low-fat milk products and fresh fruits and vegetables.

Will the kids eat the healthy fare? Only if it tastes good.

Parents can’t police what their children eat at school, of course. But they can insist that their school cafeteria reduce fat, salt and sugar while offering menus that satisfy young taste buds without short-changing young bodies.