Fish Firsts

First courses traditionally act as an introduction to a dinner party. But they can double as lunch or supper dishes, becoming “little meals.”

Seafood is a logical choice for this kind of dining. It’s satisfying, yet not heavy, especially when combined with vegetables and greens.

Consider the following recipes, which make lively, light presentations. Soft-shell crabs signify spring. Here, they are plumped in buttermilk and fried crisp and served on watercress or arugula leaves with a lime wedge and a lime dressing.

Bay scallops sauteed in a ginger dressing and tossed with chilled haricots verts make an appealing Asian-inspired first course in which hot plays against cold.

Smoked salmon is chopped and mixed with fennel, shallots and fresh dill, then mounded on endive “fingers” and arranged on mixed greens.

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One practical note: It’s essential to buy the freshest seafood and to cook it just through and no more. Scallops should retain their natural juices and are especially disappointing when they’re overcooked.

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Soft-shell crabs look complicated, but nothing could be further from the truth. Once they are cleaned out by the fishmonger, they’re almost effortless to cook. Plumping them up in buttermilk gives the soft-shells great taste and a fuller appearance. The tang of the watercress or arugula goes well with the crab.

SPICY SOFT-SHELL CRABS WITH LIME DRESSING

4 cleaned soft-shell crabs, 3 to 4 ounces each

1 1/2 cups buttermilk

1/2 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 tablespoons oil

1 1/2 tablespoons butter

1 cup crisp watercress or arugula leaves

Lime Dressing

Lime wedges

Put crabs in large bowl. Pour buttermilk over and refrigerate at least 30 minutes, up to 3 hours.

Combine flour, salt, cayenne and black pepper on plate. Remove crabs from buttermilk. Dredge in flour mixture, coating completely.

Heat oil and butter in 12-inch non-stick skillet over high heat. When sizzling hot, saute crabs until golden on both sides, about 1 1/2 minutes per side.

Garnish each serving plate with watercress. Top with crab and put dollop of Lime Dressing and lime wedge on side. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

307 calories; 795 mg sodium; 69 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 0.27 gram fiber.

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Lime Dressing

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 to 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

Combine mayonnaise, cumin, cayenne and 1/2 teaspoon lime juice in bowl. Mix well.

Taste. Add remaining lime juice, if needed. Can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated.

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Cook the scallops through in the dressing, but just to the point that their natural juiciness and good taste are retained. Young spring beans can be substituted for the haricots verts. This dish would be great for a light lunch or supper, partnered with steamed rice mixed with green onions.

WARM ASIAN SCALLOP SALAD WITH GREEN BEANS

3 tablespoons oil

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon honey

2 1/2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 1/2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons minced ginger root

1 1/2 green onions, minced

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 pound bay scallops, rinsed, drained

1/2 pound haricots verts or tender young green beans, trimmed, cooked and cooled

2 teaspoons minced cilantro leaves

Combine oil, honey, hoisin sauce, mustard, vinegar, ginger, onions and salt in small bowl. Mix well. Can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated.

Heat dressing in 8-inch non-stick skillet over medium heat until bubbling. Add scallops and cook, stirring often, just until scallops are cooked through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add haricots verts and toss well. Add cilantro. Toss again. Arrange attractively on 4 serving plates, dividing evenly. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Note : Cook green beans uncovered in 2 quarts rapidly boiling salted water until just tender but with edge of crispness. Drain in colander and place under cold running water until cold to touch (to preserve green color). Can be cooked 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Let stand at room temperature 20 minutes to remove chill.

Each serving contains about:

220 calories; 1,339 mg sodium; 19 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.89 gram fiber.

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Fennel gives a particularly nice balance to the smoked salmon mix. But if you can’t find it, substitute firm cucumber (no seeds). The “fingers” are the feature here, arranged on mixed greens and herb leaves, dressed in a peppery vinaigrette. They are great cocktail food too.

SMOKED SALMON ENDIVE “FINGERS” ON MIXED GREENS AND HERBS

6 ounces sliced smoked salmon, minced

2/3 cup finely diced fennel

1/4 cup minced shallots

1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 1/2 tablespoons light sour cream

2 tablespoons minced fresh dill

12 medium-size endive leaves

4 cups mixed mesclun greens and herb leaves such as basil, mint, tarragon, dill

Sour Cream-Anchovy Vinaigrette

Combine salmon, fennel, shallots, lemon juice and sour cream in small bowl. Divide mixture among 12 endive leaves, filling them attractively.

Toss greens with 1/4 cup Sour Cream-Anchovy Vinaigrette. Add more if needed. Adjust seasonings to taste. Arrange greens on 4 chilled dinner plates. Place 3 endive leaves on each. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

201 calories; 942 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 1.6 grams fiber.

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Sour Cream-Anchovy Vinaigrette

1 large shallot, finely minced

1 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry

2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons light sour cream

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon coarse black pepper

3/4 cup light-tasting olive oil

1 tablespoon water

1/4 teaspoon salt

Mix shallot, vinegar, anchovies, lemon juice, sour cream, mustard, pepper, olive oil, water and salt in food processor or blender. Can be made day ahead and refrigerated. Let come to room temperature before using.