For Presidential Palates

At the Waldorf-Astoria and the Sheraton Washington, Catello Vanacorae often cooked for dignitaries, including Presidents Ronald Reagan and George Bush. But he says he was never as satisfied as he is now at his own little Redondo Beach trattoria, Cafe Piccolo.

“When you have a partner or work for someone,” Vanacorae says, “you can rarely cook the way you want.”

Cafe Piccolo’s narrow, intimate dining room features fresh flowers on each table, mirrored pillars and a cabinet lined with cookbooks. The chef’s wife, Mary, recites the daily specials in detail.

You could begin with a plate of red and yellow roasted peppers, set on a purple bed of radicchio and topped with mozzarella, capers and anchovies, dressed with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

A recent special was filet of Atlantic salmon framed by two large shrimp and three mussels in a white wine sauce enhanced with Dijon mustard and fresh tarragon, and accompanied by spaghettini ($13.95).

Another special, so popular it is always offered, is the porcini risotto (a very reasonable $7.50), rich with the earthy flavor of porcini mushrooms. Another imported mushroom, fresh French chanterelle , is frequently served with a breast of chicken on cushions of polenta ($12.95).

At lunch, farfalle Piccolo ($6.95) is bow-tie pasta tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms and cream. The rigatoni ($6.75) is loaded with artichoke hearts.

Cafe Piccolo is at 709 N. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach. (310) 798-4688. Open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Monday through Thursday from 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday from 5 to 10 p.m., and Saturday from 4 to 10 p.m.