DAL : Cooking the Pulse of India

For great taste, variety and healthy eating, it is difficult to top dal --India’s umbrella term for legumes (which can be loosely defined as anything that grows in a pod).

Lentils, beans and peas are popular around the world, but in India they are the main source of protein for much of the population. Indian cooks are masters at turning these low-cost staples into dishes so exciting you want to eat them every day. At every meal.

That’s what makes Indian dal an interesting study. There’s nothing wrong, of course, with Boston baked beans, Italian cannellini or refried pintos. They qualify as dal too. The idea is to enjoy more of a good thing by experimenting with masoor , moong , chana , toor , urad and other exotic-sounding legumes.

The small orange lentils called masoor dal cook almost as quickly as instant rice. Even a rinse softens this dal , making it ideal for a fast meal. (But don’t expect orange lentil soup. Masoor dal turns yellow when cooked.)

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Another dish that cooks quickly is moong (mung) dal . Small, green-skinned mung beans are sold whole or split. The split, peeled dal resembles tiny yellow lentils. These turn up in other Asian cuisines too, often as the filling for sweets. They’re found in Chinese markets as well as in Indian stores.

Chana dal is the chick pea, alias garbanzo. But the garbanzos used in India are smaller than those grown here. There are two kinds--light-colored, called kabli chana (from the city of Kabul in Afghanistan), and darker, called kala (black) chana . Chana dal is also ground into flour called besan , which is frequently used in fried snacks, batters and sweets.

India’s answer to the black bean is urad dal. These small black legumes are frequently used peeled, in which case they are white. Punjabi cooks like to combine whole urad dal with large red beans, a sort of Mutt and Jeff dish that gains as much from the contrasting textures as from the spicing. Soaked and ground urad goes into the batter for dosais , the crisp, golden-brown pancakes from south India.

Toor (also called toovar ) is a hefty yellow dal , sold either plain or oiled (to protect it against insects).

A well-stocked Indian market can supply even more varieties, but supermarkets are good sources of dal too. Try adding Indian spices to American-grown brown and red lentils, blackeyes, yellow and green split peas, pink beans, red kidneys and other dried beans. Red kidney beans in Indian stores may be labeled rajma , but they are probably California-grown.

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In fact, many of the dals you’ll find in India are grown in the United States. The American Dry Pea & Lentil Council, which maintains an office in New Delhi, reports that India is the second largest market for American-grown dried green peas. In 1993, the United States shipped 14,394 metric tons of peas with a value of more than $4 million to India.

California sends dried blackeyes, but small harvests in the past couple of years have driven up the price and curtailed shipments.

A major selling point for legumes is their nutritional value. Beans are high in protein and supply all essential amino acids when eaten with small quantities of meat, dairy products, eggs, nuts or grains such as corn and rice. Legumes are also high in fiber and provide iron, calcium, phosphorus, potassium and other valuable nutrients.

The Blackeye Council of California promotes dry blackeyes as “the best natural vegetable source of folic acid.” Lentils and cranberry beans are also leading sources of this nutrient, which is especially recommended to women of child-bearing age to reduce the risk of the birth defects anencephaly and spina bifida.

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Lentils and beans have other advantages. Both can be stored almost indefinitely as long as they are kept cool enough to avoid infestation. Lentils cook in 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the texture desired. Once cooked, beans and lentils can be stored in the refrigerator for up to five days.

To prepare lentils, pick them over, sorting out any small stones or broken lentils. Rinse the lentils, then place them in a saucepan and cover with twice as much water as the quantity of lentils. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer just until tender. Prepare split peas the same way, but increase the cooking time to 20 to 25 minutes for al dente texture, 30 minutes for more tenderness and 45 minutes if they are to be pureed.

Though tests have shown it to be unnecessary, the California Dry Bean Advisory Board recommends beans be soaked before cooking. For one pound of dry beans, allow 10 cups of hot water. Combine in a Dutch oven, bring to a boil and boil two to three minutes. Remove from heat, cover and let stand at least one hour (but preferably four hours or longer) to promote digestibility. Soaking water should be discarded and the beans cooked in fresh water.

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India’s Tandoori in West Los Angeles serves a spectacular bean salad. Instead of ordinary American beans, the legumes used are urad, moong, masoor and chana dals and rajma (red kidney beans). The decidedly Indian masala dressing is seasoned with roasted cumin seeds, lemon juice and the two spice blends garam masala and chat masala, both available at Indian groceries. A ring of thin cucumber slices and a tomato rose add even more color.

INDIA’S TANDOORI DAL SALAD (Mixed Lentil and Vegetable Salad)

1/4 cup rajma dal (red kidney beans)

1/4 cup whole urad dal

1/4 cup whole moong dal (mung beans)

1/4 cup whole masoor dal

1/4 cup peeled kabli chana dal

1/4 pound broccoli, chopped

1/2 brown onion, chopped

1 tomato, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 to 2 hot green chiles, chopped, optional

Masala Dressing

1/4 pound lettuce, chopped

1/4 bunch cilantro, chopped

Thinly sliced cucumber

Tomato roses

Place rajma in large saucepan. Cover with enough water to cover all dals generously when remainder are added to pan. Bring to boil, reduce heat, cover and cook 10 minutes. Add urad, moong, masoor and chana dals. Bring to boil, reduce heat to low and cook 15 to 20 minutes, until dals start to soften.

Add broccoli, onion, tomato, carrot and chiles and cook until just tender. Drain off water. Cool mixture. Add Masala Dressing, lettuce and cilantro and mix gently. Arrange on individual plates and surround with thinly sliced cucumber. Place tomato rose in center. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

196 calories; 232 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 3.09 grams fiber.

Masala Dressing

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 teaspoons oil

1/2 teaspoon roasted cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon chat masala

1/2 teaspoon garam masala

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

In bowl combine lemon juice, oil, cumin seeds, chat masala, garam masala, pepper and salt. Mix well.

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If the Southern bean and rice dish known as hoppin’ John is the only way you’ve tasted blackeyes, just watch how they change character under their Indian name, lobhia. At Chandni Vegetarian Cuisine of India in Culver City, lobhia is carefully seasoned with garlic and ginger, coriander and cumin. Turmeric adds a golden hue. Chef-owner Kuldip Chand, who is from the Punjab, incorporates different dals in Chandni’s daily lunchtime buffet. It’s one place you can try the combination of small black urad dal with big red kidney beans.

CHANDNI VEGETARIAN CUISINE’S NORTH INDIAN BLACKEYES (Lobhia)

2 cups blackeyes

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons oil

1 small onion, chopped

2 large cloves garlic, chopped

1 (3/4-inch piece) ginger root, peeled and chopped

Scant 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 medium tomato, chopped

In pot soak beans overnight in water to cover generously. Next day, drain beans, cover with fresh water and bring to boil. Add salt, coriander, cumin and turmeric. Simmer until beans are just tender, about 30 to 45 minutes.

Heat oil in deep saucepan. Add onion, garlic, ginger and cumin. Fry 10 minutes and add tomato. Cook another 5 minutes and add beans and cooking liquid. Continue to simmer, uncovered, until beans are soft but not completely dissolved. Mixture should be soupy. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Each of 6 servings contains about:

242 calories; 602 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 2.87 grams fiber.

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Lentils and beans are so important to the vegetarian diet that Bir Mala Beca starts her cooking classes with a basic lesson on dal. Beca teaches the series at the Hare Krishna Community in Culver City. The price of admission to each class is a $6.50 dinner ticket at Govinda’s Buffet, the community’s new vegetarian restaurant.

Beca’s Khichari demonstrates how vegetarian cooks enhance legume protein by adding nuts, a grain or dairy product . In this case, golden fried cashews, basmati rice and clarified butter are mixed in with moong dal, and yogurt is served on the side. Added vegetables give a fresh, bright look.

Beca will start a four-week series of cooking classes at the Hare Krishna Community Oct . 5. Call (310) 204-3867 for details.

BIR MALA’S KHICHARI

(Mung Beans and Rice)

1/2 cup split peeled mung beans

1 cup basmati rice

3 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter)

1/3 cup raw cashews

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 small jalapeno chile, chopped

2 tablespoons grated ginger root

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon asafetida

1 small cauliflower, divided into florets

5 to 6 cups water

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon butter

2/3 cup frozen peas, thawed in warm water

1 cup coarsely chopped tomatoes

1/2 cup cilantro leaves

Lemon wedges

Yogurt

Place mung beans and rice in strainer and rinse well. Heat ghee in non-stick Dutch oven. Add cashews and fry until golden. Remove and set aside.

In same oil, fry cumin, chile and ginger until lightly browned. Add turmeric and asafetida. Add cauliflower and stir until well mixed with spices. Cook gently 5 to 10 minutes. Add mung beans and rice. Add 5 cups water and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed. Mixture should be moist and creamy. If too dry, add remaining 1 cup water. When done, fold in salt, butter, peas, tomatoes and cashews. Serve topped with cilantro. Accompany with lemon wedges to squeeze over mixture and with yogurt. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

234 calories; 518 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.48 grams fiber.

Note : For variety, substitute other vegetables such as green beans, diced potato and carrot.

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Sucha Pannu Singh and his wife, Dixie, live in Portland, Ore., where they have no trouble finding the spices and dals necessary for Indian cooking. Pannu, who is from the Punjab, usually makes this dish with masoor dal but has also tried it with supermarket lentils. For a vegetarian meal, the Pannus might add rice and a green salad with cucumbers. Instead of chapatis, which should be rolled out and baked to order, they’ll have whole - wheat flour tortillas, tearing off pieces to scoop up the dal.

SUCHA’S DAL

2 cups masoor dal

Water

1 1/2 teaspoons garam masala

1 1/2 teaspoons turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup oil

1 1/2 onions, chopped

1 head garlic, separated, chopped

1 (1-inch piece) ginger root, chopped

2 jalapeno chiles, chopped

2 tomatoes, chopped

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

Rinse dal thoroughly, until water is clear. In pot bring 1 quart water to boil. Add dal. Cook half way, about 10 to 15 minutes, add 1/2 teaspoon garam masala, 1/2 teaspoon turmeric and salt. As dal cooks, uncovered, water will evaporate and mixture will thicken. Add more water to keep dal loose, like texture of thick cream. When dal is soft, turn off heat.

Heat oil in wok. When oil is very hot, add onions and cook until tender and translucent but not browned. Add garlic, ginger and chiles. Continue to fry until onions are deep-yellow. Add remaining 1 teaspoon each garam masala and turmeric. Do not allow spices to burn. Keep stirring until mixture starts to stick. Add tomatoes and cilantro. Cook until tomato softens. Pour in pot of dal and simmer to blend flavors. Taste and add more salt if needed. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Each of 6 servings contains about:

355 calories; 405 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 4.07 grams fiber.

* Cover design by TRACY CROWE

* Food styling by Donna Deane and Mayi Brady