EATERY : Palates of the Caribbean

Toribio and Rafaela Prado found a natural-born solution to the long hours and hot, hard work of running a restaurant: They simply hired their 14 children. Now that the Prados have moved from Michoacan, Mexico, to California, son Javier is carrying on the family’s restaurant tradition at Prado on Larchmont Boulevard.

Those familiar with the Cha Cha Cha Cafes opened by brother Toribio Jr. on Virgil Avenue in Los Angeles and in Long Beach will have a hint about what to expect from the menu here. The cuisine cuts a swath through the Americas, with homage to Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, the United States, Canada and, most of all, the Caribbean.

An excellent strategy for first-timers is to order the Prado sampler ($13.75). This colorful plate contains jumbo shrimp with a black pepper sauce, a Louisiana crab cake, tamales with whitefish caviar, sour cream and tomatillo sauce, and a chile relleno. Another popular entree is the pollo negro ($10.75), a breast of chicken grilled with thyme, basil, oregano, cayenne, red chile, cumin and white pepper, and topped with sauteed mango and garlic.

Tribute is paid to Canada with Montreal salmon ($14.75)--actually Atlantic salmon--in a butter, lemon and caper sauce, and chicken Quebec ($10.75), a boneless breast with a wild mushroom sauce.

At lunchtime, the St. Lucia country chicken ($8.75) is a refreshing blend of baby lettuce, walnuts, apples and diced chicken in a lively balsamic vinaigrette. The St. Bart’s salad is similar, but with grilled shrimp ($11.75).

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Prado, 244 N. Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles, is open 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday, 5 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Call (213) 467-3871.