OC LIVE : Watercolors Retains Bold Strokes but Needs Some Touch-Ups

The former Dana Point Resort has a new owner and a new name, but at its popular Watercolors restaurant, chef Peter Striffolino still runs the show.

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This magnificent, Cape Cod-style property, perched atop a gentle slope overlooking Dana Point Harbor, was recently acquired by industry giant Marriott. The name is now--got a pencil?--Marriott’s Laguna Cliffs Resort at Dana Point.

Meanwhile, South County gastronomes may be wondering what the future holds for Watercolors, where Striffolino has been at the helm since the hotel opened in 1987--an impressively long tenure.

He’s a talented chef, a man fond of assertive flavors: goat cheese and basil oil with a terrine of grilled vegetables; papaya chutney, rosemary and braised red cabbage with a rack of lamb. Will a big corporation like Marriott let him continue to do his thing?

Time will tell. But Watercolors doesn’t seem to have changed much since the new owners took the helm two months ago.

That is both good and bad news.

The dining room is big enough to ride a horse through, tastefully done up with white wicker chairs, pastel colors and French windows that open out onto a flower-filled lawn. But the restaurant is so absurdly understaffed at times, it’s no surprise that service remains as erratic as when the place first opened.

One recent evening, a lone waitress struggled to serve eight tables while our entrees sat under the kitchen’s heat lamp long enough for the sauces to form skins. Another day, at lunch, we waited nearly 30 minutes for our check.

Then there is the matter of wine service.

On a Friday or Saturday evening, when the restaurant has its best team on the floor, wines are handled and poured with care. On weekday evenings, that is often not the case. One night we sent a server on a trio of excursions to seek out selections from the wine list, none of which could be located. Perhaps the cellar was simply out of stock, but no one on the staff could say for sure. We finally gave up and had iced tea.

When Striffolino is on his game, though, his cooking can make you forget these annoying glitches. The delightful calzone of Maine lobster reminds me of a sophisticated Greek spinach pie, phyllo pastry triangles with a delicate minced lobster filling. An excellent house-made terrine of goose liver is flanked by colorful cubes of aspic--red made from Port, yellow based on chive oil.

I loved the chef’s surprising poached spinach salad. It’s really just a big clump of lightly cooked spinach set down in the middle of a fan of fresh spinach leaves. The dressing is a sensational balsamic vinaigrette, and the finely chopped walnuts, tomatoes and enoki sprinkled on top add a wonderful textural contrast.

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Another intelligent starter is the bisque of lobster and shrimp, enriched with Cognac and crushed tarragon. At the bottom of the bowl are tiny nuggets of fresh Maine lobster meat.

Entrees are less consistent than first courses, in part because of the kitchen’s tendency to overcook. A beautiful seared filet of beef with herbed mashed potatoes and roasted garlic arrived light pink in the center, despite having been ordered rare. Grilled swordfish medallions with black trumpet mushrooms, green beans and a soy butter were positively well done, so much so that the flavor of the swordfish was missing in action.

And let us not forget the salt syndrome.

Dover sole is a fish prized for its delicacy. Here, sauteed with a truffle cream, this fish is prepared with so much salt it might as well be cod. Wisconsin veal loin chasseur, in a rich Dijon mustard sauce garnished with pine nuts and served with grilled polenta, is likewise marred by an almost painful dose of salt.

Seared ahi with Oriental vegetables is one dish that survives the onslaught. These slices of fish actually come up properly rare. A powerful, but not oppressively salty, sesame soy vinaigrette meets the snow peas and black mushrooms head on.

You can depend on such dishes as pappardelle pasta, Maine lobster and Striffolino’s famous lamb rack, which has been on the menu since the late ‘80s. Have your Maine lobster steamed with drawn butter, the way it would be done on Cape Cod. Striffolino also pairs the noble crustacean with chewy noodles, which are shot through with chunks of coral pink lobster meat and fresh peas, offset by a water-based parsley sauce. The lean, tender rack of lamb is nicely perfumed with rosemary and perfectly matched with crunchy red cabbage and a penetrating demi-glace.

Given all these ups and downs, desserts are remarkably steady. The unctuous espresso po^t de creme comes in a little ceramic crock accompanied by three tiny macaroons, a dessert that makes me want to shout with joy. Macadamia nut and fresh raspberry Napoleon is near perfection, while a trio of creme bru^lees --pistachio, chocolate and vanilla--are smooth and eggy. The chefs will also be glad to make you a souffle, Grand Marnier or chocolate. The souffles may not be light enough to float away, but they are frothy and definitely worth a try. Oh, and order them in advance. Well in advance.

Watercolors is expensive. Appetizers are $6 to $15. Entrees are $16 to $25. Desserts are $7.

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* WATERCOLORS

* At Marriott’s Laguna Cliffs Resort at Dana Point, 25135 Park Lantern, Dana Point.

* (714) 661-5000.

* Sunday through Thursday, 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday champagne brunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

* All major cards.