Labels for Less
The Movie: “Waiting to Exhale”
The Setup: Four African American friends--Bernadine (Angela Bassett), Savannah (Whitney Houston), Robin (Lela Rochon) and Gloria (Loretta Devine)--lean on each other and share the highs and lows of their love lives. Based on the best-selling Terry McMillan novel.
The Costume Designer: Judy Ruskin, whose credits include “Born on the Fourth of July,” “Sleepless in Seattle,” “A Walk in the Clouds” and “Forget Paris.”
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The Look: The characters showcase their personal style rather than a designer’s signature. Don’t expect to see straight-off-the-runway A-line shifts or ‘60s flashbacks. “These are working women,” Ruskin said. “They don’t have the kind of money to buy Vivienne Westwood or Christian Lacroix--or the interest.” That includes the wealthy Bernadine, who isn’t materialistic fashion-wise, Ruskin concluded, despite owning a cream-colored Armani pantsuit, a navy Norma Kamali suit and a brown jacket and striped vest from Ungaro’s Emmanuel line.
Most of each wardrobe came from discount clothing stores, including the pieces by Kamali and Ungaro. And Bernadine’s luxurious beaded tank top? Marked down at a boutique in Phoenix, where the film is set. “Any sensible woman [like these characters] would go to Loehmann’s or Marshalls or Ross Dress for Less” first, Ruskin said. “I got almost everything at Loehmann’s. I’m the queen of bargains.”
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The Plan: Rather than let fashion magazines dictate the styles, director Forest Whitaker and Ruskin agreed on an unconventional approach. “We decided that each woman was to represent an element and an aspect of nature,” the designer said. “Nature is the universal truth and that’s where true inspiration comes from.”
So, Savannah represents the wind, dressing mostly in flowing clothes, such as loose pants, long sweaters and wrap-jacket suits mostly from L.A.’s Harari stores. She even wears an outfit of cloud-pattern pants and Mandarin-collar top duo. (As for that form-fitting New Year’s Eve black bias-cut slip dress--by Galanos--a previous costume designer purchased it before Ruskin came in as a last minute replacement.)
Robin, the sex pot, is fire--the most provocative-looking of the quartet in red lace demi bra, tight orange halter dress and lots of bare midriff.
As earth, Gloria is the funkiest in colorful printed tunics and blouses--some African imports, some designed by artists and sold at Joanne Rapp’s the Hand and the Spirit Gallery in Phoenix. And she makes major statements with accessories, including handmade beaded jewelry and big, wild hats. As water, Bernadine is the cleanest and most sophisticated dresser. Her suits are mostly in creams. And in a clique where accessorizing is obviously prized to the max--bracelets, big earrings and beaded necklaces abound--Bernadine’s virtually clutter free.
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Quoted: “A woman should want to feel beautiful based on herself and not on what the media dictates,” Ruskin said.
Hemline Watch: You wouldn’t expect this group to go with the conservative new mid-knee look, and they don’t. Skirts range from short-short to long for all the women, including the admittedly overweight Gloria. Ruskin’s rule of thumb: “Any woman with great legs wears short dresses, and Loretta has a beautiful figure and great legs.”
The Demi Moore Memorial “Indecent Proposal” Dress: For the tortured take on fashion, there’s Robin’s white party dress with diamond-shaped cut-outs at the midriff, each hole anchored with lumpy knots, from Moschino’s Cheap and Chic line.
Sources: Some of Gloria’s floral-print tops and one dress are from L.A.’s Janice McCarty boutique; a pink batik dress is from the Nu Nubian store, and her bird cage straw hat is by Originals by Theresa, available at Barneys New York. Gloria wears jewelry by New York designer Jessica Rose, and the other three women wear at least one piece of Rose’s as well.
