When Fat Feeds an Inner Need

Call it backlash, a craving for flavor or laziness; whatever the excuse, people are lusting after fat again.

New York-based Faith Popcorn calls this phenomenon “pleasure revenge.” Popcorn, who heads BrainReserve Inc., helps major companies market their products based on consumer trends. Popcorn noted that people are tired of being scolded for their fat intake and “want to cut loose again.”

What that means is it isn’t necessary to justify a recipe for chicken livers in cream sauce. It is rich. It is fattening. It is very delicious. If you’re going to cut loose and enjoy an occasional high-fat pleasure, this is the dish to make.

CHICKEN LIVERS IN CREAM SAUCE

1 tablespoon butter

1/2 cup thin-sliced red baby onions (or 1/2 cup chopped shallots)

2 cups chopped mushrooms

1/2 pound chicken livers, lobes separated if necessary

1/4 cup dry red wine

1/2 cup beef broth

1 teaspoon prepared Dijon-style mustard

6 tablespoons whipping cream

Salt, freshly ground black pepper

6 ounces spaghetti, cooked and drained

Melt butter in large skillet. Add onions and mushrooms and saute over medium heat 5 minutes or until onions are limp. Add chicken livers and brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Remove livers.

Stir wine into skillet over high heat. Scrape up any browned bits from skillet. Let wine evaporate by half. Add broth and cook over high heat to reduce by half. Stir in mustard. Stir in cream and chicken livers. Reduce heat to low and simmer 5 minutes to heat through and finish cooking livers. Season with salt and pepper. Serve over spaghetti.

Makes 2 servings.

ORANGE AND ONION SALAD

2 large navel oranges, seeded if necessary and diced

1/2 cup thin-sliced red onion

3 tablespoons chopped cilantro

2 tablespoons white balsamic or other fruity white wine vinegar

1/2 tablespoon honey

Dash ground cinnamon

1/2 tablespoon vegetable or mild olive oil, optional

Arrange oranges, onion and cilantro on each of 2 salad plates.

Stir together vinegar, honey, cinnamon and oil in cup. Spoon half over each salad. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 servings.