The Simple Art of Perfect Fish

It’s one of those modern culinary paradoxes: Nothing is simpler to prepare than a well-cooked piece of fish, yet there is nothing harder to find in a restaurant.

Good fish cooking is an exercise in almost religious self-denial. When you’ve got an ingredient as beautiful (and as expensive) as a great piece of seafood, the cook’s job is to get out of the way and let it shine on its own.

Unfortunately, when faced with fish, it seems most restaurant chefs prefer to mug and clown like a bunch of seventh-graders at school picture time: “Look at me! Look at me!”

True story: At a recent dinner at a big-deal restaurant in another city, table talk revolved around how every dish on the menu had two ingredients too many. Grilled scallops sounded good, but not with mushroom demiglace and mango vinaigrette. The grilled Arctic char might have been nice, but what about the black bean pancake, cilantro oil, mango salsa and jalapen~o creme fraiche?

The waitress came to give us the specials. The first two were more of the same. Then a magic moment: “Our other entree is pan-fried brook trout with rosti potatoes and sauteed spinach. . . .” We held our collective breaths and glanced at each other. Could this be it? “And that is served with strawberry-mango salsa and blood orange beurre blanc.”

(Sound of a Homer Simpson-like slap on the forehead:) “DOAH!”

I sometimes think there ought to be a culinary editor in every kitchen. I propose a stern little woman, maybe with a black toque and a clamshell-and-periwinkle rosary. Give her a long-handled wooden spoon. Whenever she spies someone about to add that extra elaboration, WHAP! they get it across the knuckles. (I’ll reserve the right to recommend something more severe for tropical fruit salsas.)

If you want something done right--or at least done simply--you’ve almost got to do it at home. And there’s nothing simpler than grilling. You’ve got your fish, you’ve got your fire . . . almost anything else is superfluous.

The good news is you probably already have everything you need: a smart nose for buying good seafood, a sturdy grill and a few common ingredients.

The bad news is it doesn’t make for very sexy recipe writing. “Take one fish fillet, salt lightly on both sides. Grill over hot fire, turning once, until flesh just begins to flake when poked with the tip of a small sharp knife. Remove from grill. Eat. Think about how lucky you are that there’s no pineapple salsa.”

Sure, there’s a little more to it than that, but not much. Complications are to be avoided. Here is everything you need to know about perfect grilled fish:

* Start with good seafood. Find a fish store you trust and develop a relationship with the counterman. Use your eyes, fingers and nose when you shop. Smell, poke and prod to get what you want. For this reason, I prefer going to Asian fish markets. They’re used to this kind of difficult customer.

The flesh should be shiny and bright. It should be firm; when you poke it, it should resist. The smell should be of the ocean. The ocean does not smell like ammonia (certain sections of Santa Monica Bay excepted).

Most markets in Southern California seem to concentrate on fillets. There’s nothing wrong with them, as long as they’re in good shape. Smaller fish can be found whole, and I do think the little bit of extra effort in cleaning is well rewarded. When grilling a whole fish, cut several slices through the flesh just to the backbone to allow the heat to penetrate more evenly.

* Keep flavorings to a minimum. (Remember, this is not about you.) Salt, definitely; pepper, perhaps--but be discreet. Meaty fish like swordfish and tuna are two obvious exceptions to this rule. A nice thick piece of tuna and a tablespoon of crushed black peppercorns make a happy marriage.

After years of experimenting, I am not in favor of marinating fish unless it is exceptionally strong-flavored--sardines or bluefish, for instance. In such a case, a little garlic and lemon juice is probably all that is needed.

* Because fish is low in fat and won’t spark a lot of flare-ups, a hot fire is fine. In fact, a nice hot fire--not a blaze, but glowing red coals--will make it easier to keep the fish from sticking to the grill.

There are a few other tactics for avoiding this vexing problem: Make sure the grill or fish basket is really clean (a thorough scrubbing with a steel brush or a balled-up sheet of metal foil works well), get the grill really hot and brush it lightly with oil just before adding the fish.

If your fire is more moderate, consider cooking all but the thickest fillets on one side only. Put down the lid on the grill for the last couple of minutes and the top side will firm up nicely without getting sooty.

Finally, it’s worth picking up an extra-large spatula. Fish is delicate and spatulas are cheap.

* I’m neutral on the choice of woods. Although I’ve never done side-by-side experiments, my anecdotal research and my instincts tell me that because almost every piece of fish you’ll ever grill will spend fewer than 15 minutes over the fire, the amount of wood flavor it picks up is probably minimal. Dissenting opinions are welcome.

The exception is mesquite, which seems to be getting scarcer, Poseidon be praised. Even at its peak, I think its popularity was caused by the fact that it burned extremely hot, creating a thin crust on the fish. It certainly couldn’t have been the flavor, which I find acrid and kerosene-like.

* Finally, and most important, when you pull that perfect piece of fish off the fire, have enough respect to leave well enough alone. Accompaniments should be simple and should point up the fish’s flavor, not disguise it.

In most cases, it’s enough to saute some minced shallots in butter, then brush that butter over the finished fish, preferably while it is still hot and crackling from the grill.

Salsas are nice too, but they should be restrained, not over the top. Think of them as a tangy touch of something fresh to counter the char of the grill. Whatever you choose, remember that sweet and fishy are not complementary flavors.

And if you find yourself thinking of doing something a little too fancy, think of that seafood sister sitting in the corner in her black toque. And watch your knuckles.

SEA SCALLOPS WITH CILANTRO SALSA VERDE

Plenty of cilantro makes for a refreshing sauce that doesn’t overwhelm the delicate flavor of the scallops. Be careful not to overcook the scallops or they’ll be tough; 2 to 3 minutes per side is enough. The recipe was developed by Mayi Brady, a cook in The Times Test Kitchen.

1/2 cup cilantro leaves

1/4 cup parsley, stemmed

2 cloves garlic

2 anchovies

2 tablespoons capers

1/3 cup olive oil

Salt, pepper

2 pounds sea scallops

In food processor or blender, coarsely chop cilantro, parsley, garlic, anchovies and capers. With machine running, add olive oil in thin stream until smooth puree forms. Taste and adjust seasoning for salt and pepper.

Lightly salt sea scallops on both sides and grill over moderate heat until opaque and slightly firm, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Remove scallops to warm platter and serve salsa verde alongside.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

219 calories; 379 mg sodium; 42 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 0.06 gram fiber.

GRILLED SALMON WITH CHIPOTLE-TEQUILA BUTTER

There’s just enough chipotle in this Russ Parsons recipe to add an earthy, spicy touch to the dish. If you want more, add more . . . up to another tablespoon.

1 clove garlic

1 tablespoon canned pureed chipotle chiles en adobo

1/2 cup butter, at room temperature

2 teaspoons minced cilantro

2 teaspoons tequila

2 teaspoons lime juice

Salt, pepper

6 (4- to 6-ounce) salmon fillets or steaks

2 tablespoons butter, melted

Drop garlic through feed tube of food processor with motor running. When garlic is minced, scrape down sides, add chipotle puree and room-temperature butter and puree again. Add cilantro, tequila and lime juice, puree and season to taste with salt and pepper (at least 2 grinds of black pepper are necessary to round out flavor of chipotle).

Mix well, then, with plastic spatula, transfer butter to sheet of wax paper. Spread along short side of paper in generous mound. Roll paper into sausage shape, pressing and patting butter into solid log. Twist ends tight and refrigerate at least 2 hours, better overnight.

Lightly brush salmon with melted butter and season with salt and pepper on both sides. Grill over high heat until fish just begins to flake when poked with tip of knife, 5 to 7 minutes, turning once. Salmon should be marked on outside but moist pink inside.

When fish is cooked, remove to warm platter (fish will cook bit more from retained heat). Remove chipotle-tequila butter from refrigerator, unwrap and slice into 12 thin coins. Place 2 coins on each piece of fish and serve immediately, before butter melts.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

340 calories; 288 mg sodium; 112 mg cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 0.14 gram fiber.

SEA BASS WITH OLIVES, TOMATOES AND GARLIC

Fresh fish is essential for this recipe from Test Kitchen cook Mayi Brady. The method of grilling everything together allows the flavor of the olives, tomatoes, herbs and garlic to perfume the fish. You’ll find that the flavors of the garlic and olives mellow as they roast on the grill.

1/2 cup halved kalamata olives

1 pint cherry tomatoes

6 cloves garlic, halved

3 sprigs fresh thyme

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt, pepper

2 pounds sea bass fillets

Combine olives, tomatoes, garlic, thyme and olive oil in medium bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Lightly salt sea bass on both sides. Put fish and olive mixture in mesh fish basket or other device that will allow garlic and cherry tomatoes to grill without falling into fire, and grill over medium fire 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and cook until flesh just begins to flake when touched with tip of sharp knife, 4 to 5 more minutes. Remove to warmed platter.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

182 calories; 381 mg sodium; 87 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 0.60 gram fiber.

BACON-WRAPPED GRILLED TROUT

Times Test Kitchen Director Donna Deane came up with this version of a campfire-style grilled trout. She keeps things pretty simple by stuffing the fish with herbs and wrapping the outside with bacon and lemon for flavor. It’s a delicious alternative to batter-frying.

4 whole trout, about 3/4 pound each

Salt, pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 bunch fresh thyme

3 lemons

4 slices bacon

Olive oil

1 onion, cut into 1/2-inch slices

Wash trout well, drain on paper towel and pat dry. Season inside cavities of fish with salt and pepper to taste, then rub interiors with garlic. Tuck few sprigs thyme into cavity of each fish.

Halve and thinly slice 1 lemon and place 2 to 3 slices on top of each fish. Wrap 1 slice bacon around each fish to hold lemon slices in place. Secure bacon to fish with string.

Lightly sprinkle salt to taste over both sides of fish and brush with oil. Halve remaining 2 lemons and brush lemon halves and onion slices with oil, then lightly sprinkle with salt to taste. Place fish on hot grill with with lemon halves and onion slices alongside. Grill fish until browned on 1 side, turn to brown other side and continue to grill until fish flakes easily when tested with fork, about 10 minutes. Onions will take about 10 minutes to grill, lemons 5 to 8 minutes.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

570 calories; 343 mg sodium; 141 mg cholesterol; 40 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 47 grams protein; 0.21 gram fiber.

SQUID KEBABS

Not really a Far East-Middle East fusion, this is just squid on skewers, an idea from Times Food section intern Phil Andres. Marinating the squid should make them a little more tender, but you should still expect to do some chewing. Serve the kebabs over a bed of steamed rice or over bok choy stir-fried in any remaining reserved marinade.

1/4 cup peanut oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon grated ginger root

1/4 cup green onions, chopped

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup rice wine or sherry

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1/4 teaspoon chile oil

2 pounds squid, cleaned

1 pint pearl onions, peeled

Combine peanut oil, garlic, ginger, green onions, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil and chile oil in small bowl. Combine squid and pearl onions in large dish. Reserve 2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup marinade for basting and sauce. Pour remaining marinade over squid, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.

Place squid on skewers, alternating with pearl onions.

Grill kebabs over moderate heat until squid are done and onions are tender, basting with reserved marinade as necessary, 4 to 6 minutes.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

176 calories; 699 mg sodium; 141 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.30 gram fiber.

CHARCOAL-GRILLED SHELLFISH WITH RED WINE BUTTER SAUCE

The key to this recipe from “The Chez Panisse Menu Book” by Alice Waters (Random House, 1982) is using the freshest shellfish you can find. This means that if you can’t find a live Dungeness crab, try whatever sort of crab you can find live. Or omit the crab entirely. Even if you wind up grilling just the scallops, you’ll have a terrific meal.

RED WINE BUTTER SAUCE

6 shallots, finely diced

1 small onion, finely diced

1 pound plus 3 tablespoons butter

1 1/2 cups light red wine (Chianti or Beaujolais)

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Salt, pepper

Saute shallots and onion in 3 tablespoons butter over low heat until translucent, about 10 minutes. Cut remaining 1 pound butter into tablespoon-sized bits and set aside to soften slightly. Add red wine and red wine vinegar to pan with shallots and reduce over medium-low heat until liquid is syrupy and about 3/4 cup remains. Taste for acidity and add a little more vinegar if necessary.

Increase heat to medium-high and whisk in 1/2 pound softened butter, bit by bit. When butter has been incorporated, lower heat and add remaining butter in 4 or 5 additions, whisking constantly. Season with salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Keep sauce warm in double boiler.

SHELLFISH

1 live lobster, about 1 1/2 pounds

1 large live Dungeness crab, about 2 pounds

2 dozen oysters

2 dozen mussels

1/2 to 3/4 pounds sea scallops

Cook lobster and crab in large pot of lightly salted boiling water about 2 minutes. Remove from pot. When cool enough to handle, clean and disjoint them with sharp knife. Leave shells on and cut lobster tail into about 1-inch rounds. Leave crab legs as they are and divide body into 4 to 6 pieces, depending on size of crab. Reserve tomalley and coral for another use. Scrub oysters and mussels and debeard mussels.

Prepare charcoal fire that is very hot in 1 area, flames just licking above grill, and medium-hot in another area. Cook oysters and mussels over hot fire until half-open, about 5 minutes. Remove from fire and finish opening with oyster knife if necessary. Reserve on warmed platters or plates and spoon little red wine butter over each.

Cook crab and lobster pieces and scallops over medium fire, turning frequently, until done, about 3 to 5 minutes. Arrange lobster, crab and scallops on warm platters and brush lightly with little Red Wine Butter Sauce. Serve remaining sauce in small bowls.

Makes 12 servings.

Each serving contains about:

420 calories; 284 mg sodium; 147 mg cholesterol; 35 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.14 gram fiber.

* Grilling wok in grilled shellfisj photo from Bristol Kitchens, South Pasadena.

* “Annie Glass” plates in sea scallop photo from Geary’s in Beverly Hills.