1993 Ernest & Julio Gallo Sonoma Frei...

1993 Ernest & Julio Gallo Sonoma Frei Ranch Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley), ($12.99).

This splendid Zinfandel has an enticing briar-like scent of dark berries overlaid with a touch of smoke. In the mouth, it’s all gorgeous, sweet fruit and ripe, gentle tannins, making it one of the best examples of Gallo’s new line of quality-conscious wines--at a sweet price. It’s a versatile wine, great with anything from grilled chicken, sausages and burgers to a duck-laden cassoulet or a standing rib roast.