1995 Elderton Shiraz Barossa Valley (About $20)

This remarkable elegant Shiraz from Australia’s Barossa Valley is a gorgeous garnet in color and bursts with ripe, sweet fruit (think blackberries and boysenberries), yet it has a focus and tightly knit structure unusual for an Australian Shiraz. Not a wine for idle sipping, it demands food with big bold flavors; it’s wonderful, for example, with a Provencal-style daube.