In the Beginning, Create Salmon Toasts

Appetizers are afterthoughts for many who entertain. Cooks concentrate on main courses and desserts and then think of what might begin a menu. But the truth is that hors d’oeuvres whet guests’ appetites and often set the tone for a meal.

In years past, I thought nothing of preparing homemade pa^tes and terrines or baking individual savory tarts as openers but, like everyone else these days, I don’t have time for such complicated creations. I look for simple yet interesting dishes like these smoked salmon and arugula toasts.

Slices of French bread are brushed with olive oil and baked until crisp, then spread with goat cheese seasoned with grated lemon peel and cracked black pepper. Finally, arugula leaves and thin slices of smoked salmon are layered on top of the toast.

The peppery mustard flavor of arugula combines admirably with the salty, smoked taste of the fish and the tart accent of the cheese. In addition, the vivid coral hue of the salmon and the deep green of the arugula leaves make an enticing visual statement. The recipe can easily be increased for larger groups.

SMOKED SALMON AND ARUGULA TOASTS

Watercress can be substituted for arugula. Clean watercress and cut leaves into thin strips for the garnish.

24 (1/2-inch-thick) slices French bread, cut on diagonal from loaf 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

6 ounces goat cheese

1 1/2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

4 teaspoons lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound arugula leaves, cleaned and dried

8 to 10 ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon

Brush both sides of bread slices with olive oil and arrange on baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees until light golden, 10 to 14 minutes, turning once. Cool 5 minutes. (Note: Toast can be prepared 2 to 3 hours ahead and kept loosely covered with foil at cool room temperature.)

Combine cheese, lemon peel, lemon juice and pepper to taste in small bowl and mix well. (Note: Cheese mixture can be prepared 2 to 3 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before using.)

Spread each toast with thin layer of cheese mixture. Top with 2 to 3 arugula leaves arranged so that leaves extend over edges of bread.

Cut salmon slices so they fit top of toasts and top each toast with 1 to 2 slices salmon. Sprinkle with pepper to taste.

Stack several remaining arugula leaves and cut into thin strips to make about 1/4 cup. Sprinkle top of each toast with few arugula strips. Arrange toasts on serving tray.

24 toasts. Each toast:

98 calories; 319 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.03 gram fiber.